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Autopapyrus · Nissan Largo (2nd generation, W20)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/largo/repairing-the-center-console-cup-holder-lid/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Largo (2nd generation, W20): Repairing the Center Console Cup Holder Lid

The cup holder with a flip-up lid in the center console box between the front seats of the Largo W20 usually fails because of worn axle lugs, a broken latch, or a crack in the plastic. The exact disassembly procedure for this model is not documented in open sources, so the general repair approach is given below. From there, work as you go, inspecting the mounting points.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 1-2 hours (plus glue drying time) Steps: 8 Tools: flat-blade and Phillips screwdrivers, plastic trim removal tools, flashlight, masking tape, soldering iron or heat gun if needed

Part

  • 🔩 No repair kit is needed if the damage is minor. For the repair, use two-part epoxy adhesive for plastic or an ABS/PP adhesive, a small metal or plastic reinforcing plate, and a furniture spring or hinge spring if needed. If the lid is cracked or broken apart, look for it as a separate console part or a used one from a salvage yard

Step by step

8 steps
  1. Open the lid and hold it in its fully open position. Inspect it and check where it is broken. It could be the axle (hinge), the lugs the axle sits in, the latch catch, the spring, or the lid body itself.
  2. If the repair can be done without removal, put the lid back in place and check its travel. If a misalignment or a stop is interfering, inspect the mechanism and clean out dust and crumbs.
  3. If you need to remove the lid, locate its mounting points. It is usually held on by an axle with side retainers or by clips. Pry them loose with a thin flat-blade screwdriver or a plastic trim tool, holding the part with a finger. Do not use excessive force: after 30 years the plastic becomes brittle. If screws are in the way, remove them with a Phillips screwdriver, and if necessary remove the surrounding console trim.
  4. Wipe the break area with alcohol or a degreaser. To glue a broken latch or lug, dry-fit the part, match up the surfaces, and hold them together with tape. Then apply epoxy adhesive to the break.
  5. For load-bearing areas (the axle, the lugs), reinforce the joint from the inside: glue a flat plate of plastic or thin metal over the break, and if you like, drill 2 mm holes and stitch the joint with wire or a zip tie. If the plastic has melted, the area can also be welded with a soldering iron.
  6. Allow the adhesive to cure for the time given on the package, usually 12-24 hours. Do not put load on the part before then.
  7. If the axle is broken, replace it with a suitable rod or a screw of the right diameter, leaving a small clearance so the lid can rotate freely. If the latch is worn, you can glue on a small magnet or fit a simple plastic catch.
  8. Install the lid, snap the retainers into place or tighten the screws, and refit any trim you removed. Check that it moves smoothly and holds in both the open and closed positions, and adjust if necessary.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not heat the plastic with a heat gun above 100-120 °C (212-250 °F), and do not use solvent-based construction adhesives (such as contact cement), because they eat into the plastic and cannot hold a load. If the lid is cracked in several places or crumbling, the repair will not last, so it is better to find a used part. Wiring and the seat mounts run next to the console, so do not pull on any wires when removing panels.