Autopapyrus · Nissan Largo (W30)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/largo/repairing-the-cup-holder-lid-in-the-armrest/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/largo/repairing-the-cup-holder-lid-in-the-armrest/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Nissan Largo (W30): Repairing the Cup Holder Lid in the Armrest
The cup holder lid in the armrest between the front seats of the Largo usually fails because of cracks in the hinge, broken pivot pin lugs, a lost spring, or a latch that no longer holds. The design is simple and made of plastic, and in most cases the part can be restored without replacing it. The exact armrest mounting layout on a specific trim level (with a swivel or removable unit) may differ, so the general procedure is given below, and you should identify the exact fastener locations on your vehicle.
Part
- 🔩 It is better to repair what you have, because new 1995 interior parts are almost impossible to find. If the lid is completely broken, get a cup holder lid or a complete armrest from a salvage yard (Nissan Largo W30 1993-1999). The OE part numbers are not known for certain, so none are given. Repair kit: two-component epoxy for plastic, a small spring or pivot pin (hardware)
Step by step
10 steps- Open and close the lid and identify the fault: a broken hinge or pivot pin, a cracked lid flap, a missing spring, or a latch that does not hold. This determines whether you need to remove the whole armrest.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if wiring runs in or near the armrest (illumination, cigarette lighter, power outlet). If there is no wiring, you can skip this step.
- Inspect how the armrest is mounted: most often it is held by 2-4 screws or bolts on the bottom or side, and some of them are covered by plugs. Remove them by prying the plugs out with a thin trim tool. Do not pull the assembly off by force until you have found all the fasteners.
- Remove the armrest or its upper part. If the housing has plastic clips, release them one at a time without breaking the tabs.
- Take the lid out of the housing: the pivot pin is usually held either by slots at the ends or by plastic lugs. Note the position of the spring (if there is one), and it is best to take a photo.
- Clean the broken areas of dirt and grease (rubbing alcohol or degreaser), and lightly scuff them with sandpaper for better adhesion.
- Glue the cracks with two-part epoxy for plastic. For load-bearing areas (the pivot pin lugs), add reinforcement: a piece of fiberglass cloth or metal mesh embedded in the glue on the back side. Allow the curing time given in the glue instructions, usually several hours.
- If the pivot pin lug is completely broken, you can drill a new hole and install a metal pin made from a nail or a rod of suitable diameter, securing it with glue and washers. Replace the spring with a similar one from a stationery supplier or a repair spring.
- Assemble the lid into the housing and check that it moves smoothly and that the latch works before reinstalling the armrest.
- Install the armrest, tighten the fasteners without overtightening (the plastic mating parts strip easily, and moderate force is enough), reconnect the battery terminal if you removed it, and check that the illumination or power outlet works.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not overheat the plastic with a soldering iron or a heat gun, because it is old and may warp or lose its color. Do not glue hinges with super glue: the joint is brittle and will break again. A 1995 interior is fragile and the plastic clips lose their elasticity, so release everything slowly and without jerking. The exact armrest mounting layout and part numbers for this trim level are not documented in open sources, so the procedure is described as a general principle.