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Autopapyrus · Toyota RAV4 (XA50)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/rav4/rear-suspension-arm-bushing-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota RAV4 (XA50): Rear Suspension Arm Bushing Replacement

The rear suspension of the RAV4 XA50 uses lower lateral arms with rubber-metal bushings. Wear shows up as clunking over bumps, increased wheel play, and uneven tire wear. Replacement requires pressing out the old bushings and pressing in the new ones, using a press or a dedicated bushing puller tool.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 3-4 hours Steps: 15 Tools: jack, jack stands, 17/19/22 mm sockets, torque wrench, hydraulic press (20 ton) or bushing puller/remover tool, pry bar, WD-40, wire brush

Part

  • 🔩 Rear suspension arm bushings (OE Toyota 48725-42040 or aftermarket equivalents Febest TAB-449, CTR CVT-97, Masuma RU-479)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 12 more. See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or lift the rear with a jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the rear wheel on the side you are working on.
  2. Apply WD-40 to the arm mounting bolts and let it soak into the threads for 10-15 minutes.
  3. Remove the nut securing the arm to the steering knuckle (rear end of the arm) with a 19 mm wrench. Tightening torque on assembly: 90 N·m (66 lb-ft).
  4. Remove the bolt securing the arm to the body (front end of the arm) with a 22 mm wrench. Tightening torque on assembly: 90 N·m (66 lb-ft).
  5. Remove the arm from its mounting points. If the arm is stuck, use a pry bar to work it loose, tapping carefully with a hammer through a wooden spacer.
  6. Clean the arm of dirt and corrosion with a wire brush. Inspect the mounting areas for cracks or deformation.
  7. Place the arm in a hydraulic press (20 tons minimum) or use a bushing puller. Press the old bushing out of the arm. An alternative method is burning out the rubber part with a torch and then removing the metal sleeve with a chisel (this risks damaging the arm, so use extreme caution).
  8. Wipe the arm's bushing bore with a clean rag, then coat the inner surface with a thin layer of silicone grease or soapy water to make pressing in easier.
  9. Position the new bushing in the bore. Important: the bushing is directional. The narrower flange must face the center of the arm. Check the orientation before pressing.
  10. Press the bushing in evenly until it seats fully. Force must be applied to the outer metal sleeve of the bushing, not to the rubber part. Use a driver of the appropriate diameter (or a set of large sockets).
  11. Reinstall the arm on the vehicle and thread in the bolts securing it to the body and the steering knuckle, but do NOT fully tighten them yet.
  12. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Bounce the body a few times so the suspension settles into its normal working position.
  13. Fully tighten the arm mounting bolts with a torque wrench to 90 N·m (66 lb-ft) for both mounts. CRITICALLY IMPORTANT: tighten only with the suspension loaded (vehicle resting on its wheels). If you tighten them with the suspension hanging, the bushing will be twisted in service and will tear quickly.
  14. Repeat the procedure for the other arm (if required).
  15. After replacement, a rear wheel alignment is recommended, since replacing the bushings can affect wheel alignment angles.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Rubber-metal bushings are designed to flex, not to rotate. Final tightening of the mounting bolts MUST be done with the suspension loaded (vehicle on the ground), otherwise the bushings will quickly tear from twisting. If you don't have a hydraulic press or a bushing puller, take the vehicle to a repair shop, because improvised tools (a bolt and nut with sockets) can damage the arm or the bushing if used incorrectly.
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