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Autopapyrus · Volkswagen Pointer 1.0 (AA, 58 hp) (2004)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volkswagen/pointer/cylinder-head-gasket-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Volkswagen Pointer 1.0 (AA, 58 hp) (2004): Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement

Replacing the cylinder head gasket on the Pointer 1.0 is a labor-intensive job that requires strict adherence to the tightening torques and sequence. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using the angle-tightening method (torque-to-yield) in several stages. These bolts must not be reused.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-8 hours Steps: 18 Tools: socket and wrench set, torque wrench 0-100 N·m, angle gauge for angle-tightening the bolts (or a special wrench with a protractor), screwdrivers, pry bars, containers for draining coolant, solvent for cleaning surfaces, shop rags

Part

  • 🔩 cylinder head gasket (036 103 383 AF), new cylinder head bolt set (WHT 001865, M9×1.25×126.5 – replacement is mandatory, the bolts are single-use), valve cover gasket, coolant 5-6 L (5.3-6.3 qt)

Step by step

18 steps
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and drain the coolant through the drain plugs on the radiator and the engine block.
  2. Remove the air filter and the throttle body, and disconnect the cooling system hoses from the cylinder head (upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hose).
  3. Disconnect the sensor connectors (temperature, camshaft position, injectors) and remove the fuel rail with the injectors (remove the 2 mounting bolts and disconnect the fuel line).
  4. Remove the valve cover (10 mm bolts; loosen them from the edges toward the center so the cover does not warp).
  5. Set the camshaft to the TDC marks for cylinder 1, then remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket (loosen the tensioner pulley first).
  6. Remove the camshaft retaining bolts (the bolts are part of the bearing caps; there are 5 caps in total) and carefully remove the camshaft.
  7. Remove the 10 cylinder head bolts in a sequence from the edges toward the center (the reverse of the tightening sequence). Loosen the bolts in stages: first half a turn each, working around in a circle, then remove them completely.
  8. Lift the cylinder head straight up (if it is stuck, carefully pry it at the casting lugs provided for this, without damaging the sealing surface). Place it on a flat surface with the mating surface facing up.
  9. Check the head surface for warping with a straightedge and feeler gauge (maximum 0.05 mm). If it exceeds this, the head must be machined at a repair shop. The minimum head height after machining is 135.6 mm (standard 136 mm).
  10. Clean the mating surfaces of the head and block of any remaining old gasket material with a plastic scraper or wooden spatula (metal tools scratch the surface). Wipe with solvent and blow out the cylinder head bolt holes with compressed air.
  11. Place the new cylinder head gasket on the block (the gasket is installed dry, without sealant). Align it on the dowel sleeves. The gasket is marked "OBEN/TOP" and must sit exactly on the dowel pins.
  12. Install the cylinder head, aligning the bolt holes. Insert the new cylinder head bolts (the old ones must not be used).
  13. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in 3 stages, working from the center outward (sequence 5-3-1-7-9, then 6-4-2-8-10): Stage 1: 30 N·m (22 lb-ft) with a torque wrench; Stage 2: turn each bolt an additional 90 degrees (use an angle gauge or a chalk mark); Stage 3: another 90 degrees. Perform the angle tightening with a rigid wrench; do not use a torque wrench for these stages.
  14. Install the camshaft in the head, lubricating the journals with engine oil. Install the bearing caps (numbered 1-5; the arrow on the cap points toward the timing belt). Tighten the cap bolts to 15-18 N·m (11-13 lb-ft), working from the center outward.
  15. Install the camshaft sprocket (align the mark on the sprocket with the mark on the cylinder head cover), fit the timing belt, and tension it with the tensioner pulley. Turn the crankshaft 2 full revolutions and make sure the marks line up.
  16. Apply a thin bead of sealant around the mating surface of the valve cover (or install a new gasket if it is rubber). Install the cover and tighten the bolts to 8 N·m (6 lb-ft), working from the center outward.
  17. Reconnect all the cooling system hoses, the fuel rail, and the sensor and injector connectors. Fill with fresh coolant and bleed the air from the system (warm the engine up to operating temperature with the expansion tank cap open, topping up the coolant as air escapes).
  18. Start the engine and check for coolant, oil and fuel leaks. Let it idle for 10-15 minutes, then check the fluid levels. Re-checking the cylinder head bolt tightness after 100-200 km (60-120 miles) is recommended (on engines with angle tightening, re-torquing is usually not required, but checking does no harm).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The cylinder head bolts are single-use (torque-to-yield type). Reusing them will compromise sealing and risks a blown gasket. If the head is warped by more than 0.05 mm, machining at a specialized shop is mandatory. Failing to follow the tightening sequence and torques will deform the head and lead to leaks and engine overheating. Do not use sealant on the cylinder head gasket itself, only on the valve cover. If you have no experience with this job, we recommend taking the car to a repair shop.
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