Autopapyrus · ZAZ-1102 Tavria 1.1 MeMZ-245 (1993)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/zaz/zaz-1102-tavria/water-pump-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/zaz/zaz-1102-tavria/water-pump-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
ZAZ-1102 Tavria 1.1 MeMZ-245 (1993): Water Pump Replacement
The MeMZ-245 water pump is the most vulnerable part of the cooling system. Signs of wear include leaks from the weep hole, a hum or whine from the bearing, pulley play, and overheating. The exact procedure and torque specs for this engine are only partially documented in publicly available service materials, so the sequence below is a general one. Tighten fasteners evenly and do not overtighten, since the housing is aluminum.
Parts
2- 🔩 Water pump assembly for the MeMZ-245 with gasket or sealing ring. Also needed: coolant (antifreeze), about 6-7 L (6.3-7.4 qt)
- 🔩 if the belt has lost tension or is cracked, a new water pump/alternator drive belt, plus a timing belt if it was removed
Step by step
13 steps- Shut off the cold engine, park the car on level ground, set the parking brake, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Work only on a fully cooled engine.
- Place the drain pan underneath, open the expansion tank cap (or radiator cap), and drain the coolant through the radiator drain plug and by disconnecting the lower hose. If possible, also drain the cylinder block if it has a drain hole.
- Remove any components blocking access: belt guards and, if necessary, the air intake and hoses. Note the location and labeling of wires and hoses.
- Loosen the alternator mounting and remove the drive belt (if the pump is driven by it). If the pump is driven by the timing belt, first set the timing marks according to the specification and secure that position so the valve timing is not disturbed.
- Disconnect the cooling system hoses from the pump by loosening the clamps. Deformed old clamps are best replaced.
- Remove the bolts securing the pump to the block (note the bolt lengths, since they may differ) and carefully remove the pump. If it is stuck, wiggle it loose without prying along the mating surface with a screwdriver.
- Clean the mounting surface on the block of any remains of the old gasket and sealant, keeping dirt out of the coolant jacket. Check for corrosion and pitting.
- Compare the new pump with the old one: the fit, hose connection positions, pulley diameter, and impeller must match. The impeller should spin freely without binding or noise.
- Install the new gasket (a thin layer of sealant may be used), fit the pump, and tighten the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern. Use the specified torque; as a guideline, for M8 bolts approximately 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft).
- Install the drive belt and adjust its tension: deflection of about 10-15 mm with roughly 10 kgf (about 98 N, 22 lbf) of force at the middle of the belt run. If the timing belt was removed, verify that the marks line up and turn the crankshaft by hand through 2 full revolutions.
- Reconnect the hoses, tighten the clamps, close the drain openings, and fill with coolant to the mark on the tank. Reconnect the battery.
- Start the engine and warm it up until the thermostat opens, watching the coolant level and checking for leaks. Bleed air pockets (lightly squeeze the upper hose and hold the engine at 2000-2500 rpm). Top up the coolant to the proper level.
- After 100-200 km (60-125 miles), check the level on a cold engine, the clamp tightness, any leaks, and the belt tension, and retighten if necessary.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not open the cap on a hot engine, as you may be burned by steam. The quality of new pumps can be inconsistent, and some last a very short time, so buy a pump from a reputable manufacturer and check for play and smooth rotation before installing. Incorrect timing marks when working with the timing belt can damage the engine. If you lack experience, it is better to go to a repair shop.
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