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Autopapyrus · Acura RLX 3.5 V6 Sport Hybrid (2018)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/acura/rlx/timing-belt-and-water-pump-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Acura RLX 3.5 V6 Sport Hybrid (2018): Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement

The engine in this Sport Hybrid is a direct-injection i-VTEC unit with cylinder deactivation. It belongs to the J-series family and uses a timing belt, not a chain. The job is hard because of the tight engine bay and the high-voltage system: to reach the belt covers you need to remove the strut tower brace, raise the engine slightly (about 35 mm), and disconnect the HV cable of the electric A/C compressor.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 5-7 hours (about 5.5 hours by the factory labor guide, longer if you are inexperienced) Steps: 11 Tools: Socket and ratchet set, torque wrench, crankshaft and pulley holding tool (or a wrench for the crankshaft bolt), jack or lift and jack stands, engine support stand or hoist, socket for the tensioner nut, syringe or vacuum for coolant, multimeter and a tester to confirm the HV system is de-energized, 1000 V insulated gloves

Part

  • 🔩 Timing belt kit for the Honda/Acura J35 engine: timing belt, automatic tensioner, idler pulleys, water pump, water pump gasket or O-rings, camshaft and crankshaft seals (as needed based on condition), drive belt, Honda Type 2 coolant. An OEM kit or a top-tier brand (Gates, Aisin, Contitech) is best. I am not listing exact part numbers for this hybrid's engine to avoid errors, so look them up by VIN

Step by step

11 steps
  1. De-energize the high-voltage system. Turn the vehicle off, remove the key, disconnect the 12 V battery, and remove the HV service plug following the Acura service procedure. Wait at least 5-10 minutes, then confirm that no voltage is present. Wear 1000 V insulated gloves for all work near the orange cables.
  2. Raise the vehicle on a lift or jack stands. Remove the front right wheel, the fender liner, and the engine undercover. Drain the coolant (this is required for the water pump replacement).
  3. Remove the air duct and anything else blocking access on the right side. Remove the front strut tower brace.
  4. Disconnect the HV cable of the electric A/C compressor and move it aside without putting any strain on the connector. Remove the drive belt.
  5. Support the engine from below (with a block of wood under the oil pan) or from above with a support bar. Disconnect the upper right engine mount and raise the engine about 35 mm so you can remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Do not pull on hoses or wiring harnesses, and keep an eye on them.
  6. Turn the crankshaft clockwise using the pulley bolt and align the marks: the crankshaft at TDC for cylinder 1, and the camshaft pulley marks with the marks on the covers. Take a photo of the positions before removal.
  7. Release the tensioner and remove the belt. Remove the tensioner, idler pulleys, and water pump, clean the mounting surface, and install the new water pump with a new seal.
  8. Install the new idler pulleys and tensioner (torque per the service manual, roughly 20-50 N·m (15-37 lb-ft) for the tensioner and idler pulley fasteners; check the exact values for your vehicle in the service manual). Fit the new belt starting at the crankshaft pulley, then continue in order around the system, with the tensioner last, observing the rotation direction arrows.
  9. Release the tensioner pin, turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise, and confirm that the marks line up again. If they do not, remove the belt and repeat the procedure.
  10. Reinstall the covers, the engine mount, the drive belt, the strut tower brace, and reconnect the A/C compressor HV cable, then reinstall the undercover and the wheel. Refill the coolant and bleed the air from the cooling system per the service manual.
  11. Reconnect the HV service plug and the battery, start the engine, and check for leaks, fault codes, and A/C operation. Check the coolant level after the engine has cooled down.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Working on the high-voltage system can be fatal. Do not attempt it without experience and 1000 V gloves; leave the job to a repair shop. Installing the belt one tooth off can cause the valves to hit the pistons and lead to costly engine repairs. The belt replacement interval for engines in this family is typically about 100,000 km (60,000 miles) or 7 years. Replace the belt together with the water pump and tensioner.
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