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Opel Vectra B 2.0 X20XEV (1999): Timing Belt Replacement with Rollers and Water Pump

The X20XEV (Ecotec 16V, 136 hp) is driven by a timing belt, not a chain. The belt drives both camshafts and, as a rule, the water pump. The engine is an interference design: if the belt breaks or jumps teeth, the valves will hit the pistons. Do the work on a cold engine and strictly by the timing marks.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours Steps: 12 Tools: socket and wrench set, Torx set (E-Torx and Torx for the pulley and fasteners), torque wrench, jack and jack stands, engine support or stand, flywheel locking tool (screwdriver or pry bar through the transmission housing window), paint or marker for alignment marks, wrench or hex key for the tensioner eccentric, coolant drain pan

Part

  • 🔩 Timing kit for the 2.0 16V (X20XEV): timing belt, tensioner pulley and idler pulley. Replacing the water pump is recommended, along with the crankshaft and camshaft seals if needed. I am not listing exact OE numbers: it is best to match them by VIN so you don't buy a part for the wrong engine
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 10 more. See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Park the car on level ground, raise the front right side onto jack stands and remove the right front wheel. Remove the engine undertray if fitted.
  2. Drain some of the coolant if you are replacing the water pump. Remove the accessory drive belt. Release the tensioner and take off the belt for the alternator, power steering pump and A/C compressor (if equipped).
  3. Support the engine from below with a wooden block under the oil pan, then remove the right engine mount together with its bracket. This gives access to the lower part of the timing belt cover.
  4. Remove the upper and lower plastic timing belt covers. Using a wrench on the crankshaft bolt, turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation until the marks line up: the mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the mark on the oil pump housing or block, and the marks on the camshaft pulleys with the marks on the rear cover or the belt cover. If you don't have clear reference marks, mark the positions with paint before removal.
  5. Lock the crankshaft against turning. On an automatic transmission this is easiest done through the window in the transmission housing by holding the flywheel with a flat screwdriver. On a manual, you can select top gear and have the wheels braked. Do not use impact wrenches.
  6. Remove the crankshaft pulley (Torx bolts) to get access to the lower cover and the toothed sprocket. If needed, also remove the toothed sprocket to replace the seal.
  7. Release the tensioner pulley. Remove the old belt, then remove the pulleys. Inspect the sprockets for tooth wear, cracks and oil leaks.
  8. If you are replacing the water pump, remove its fasteners and take it off. Clean the mating surface. Install the new pump with a new gasket or O-ring and tighten the fasteners evenly.
  9. Install the new pulleys. Check that the marks still line up. Fit the new belt first onto the crankshaft sprocket, then, in the direction of rotation, over the idler pulley, the camshaft pulleys and the water pump, and finally onto the tensioner pulley. The belt run between the crankshaft and the camshaft in the direction of rotation must be taut.
  10. Adjust the tension using the marks or the indicator on the tensioner (per the manufacturer's specification for that pulley). Tighten the tensioner and its locknut. Tighten the pulley and roller bolts with a torque wrench: I am not giving a torque value for your engine, so use the specification table supplied with the kit you bought.
  11. Turn the crankshaft two full turns in its normal direction of rotation. Return it to the mark position and check that the marks line up. If they don't, remove the belt and repeat the installation.
  12. Install the covers, crankshaft pulley, engine mount and accessory drive belt. Refill the coolant and bleed the system if you drained it. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Check for leaks and unusual noises.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The engine is an interference design: an error in the marks or incorrect tension will result in bent valves. If you lack experience or the special tools for locking the shafts, leave the job to a repair shop. The factory belt replacement interval for this engine is usually 60,000 km or 4-5 years, and on older cars with no service records it is better to replace the belt right away.
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