← Sirion Daihatsu Sirion repair manuals →
Autopapyrus · Daihatsu Sirion 1.0 EJ-VE (1999)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/daihatsu/sirion/timing-belt-tensioner-pulley-and-tensioner-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Daihatsu Sirion 1.0 EJ-VE (1999): Timing Belt, Tensioner Pulley and Tensioner Replacement

The EJ-VE is a three-cylinder, 12-valve, 1.0 L engine with a belt-driven valvetrain. If the belt breaks, the valves can hit the pistons, so this job should not be put off. The exact procedure and torque specifications for this engine are not documented in publicly available service materials, so the general proven sequence for a three-cylinder belt-driven engine is given below. Check critical values against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-3 hours Steps: 13 Tools: Socket and wrench set, ratchet and torque wrench, pulley holding tool (or a stop to hold the crankshaft), puller or pry bar for the crankshaft pulley, engine support or a jack with a wooden block, jack and jack stands, marker or paint for marks, thin screwdriver or hex key for locking the tensioner

Part

  • 🔩 Timing belt kit for Sirion 1.0 (timing belt, tensioner pulley, tensioner/damper, and an idler pulley if included in the kit). Ready-made kits from pulley and belt manufacturers, such as Schaeffler/INA, are available in catalogs for this model. It is also recommended to replace the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals if there are signs of oil leaks, and to inspect the water pump
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Shut off the engine, let it cool, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Raise the front right wheel on a jack stand and remove it. If needed, remove the splash shield (fender liner) to reach the crankshaft pulley.
  2. Remove the accessory drive belt (alternator, power steering pump, and A/C if equipped). Remember the belt routing.
  3. Support the engine from below with a jack and a wooden block so you can remove the right engine mount if it blocks access to the timing cover. Do not press the jack against the thin part of the oil pan.
  4. Remove the upper part of the timing belt cover, then the crankshaft pulley (the pulley bolt is loosened with the crankshaft held in place, so do not turn the engine with the starter). Remove the lower part of the cover.
  5. Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until the marks line up: the mark on the camshaft pulley must match the mark on the cylinder head or cover, and the mark on the crankshaft sprocket must match the mark on the block. Before removing the belt, use a marker to put reference marks on the belt and on the pulleys. This is a safeguard.
  6. Loosen the tensioner (pulley) bolt and remove the belt. Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft while the belt is off.
  7. Remove the tensioner pulley and the tensioner (damper). Inspect the mounting surfaces and check the water pump for play, leaks and bearing noise. If the water pump is driven by this belt, replacing it along with the kit is a sensible choice.
  8. Install the new pulley and tensioner. If the tensioner is hydraulic or piston-type, slowly compress the rod in a vise before installing and lock it with a pin. Remove the pin only after the belt is installed.
  9. Fit the new belt, following the direction of rotation (the arrow on the belt) and the marks. First put it on the crankshaft sprocket, then onto the other pulleys in the direction of belt travel, and last onto the tensioner pulley, so that the drive side stays tight.
  10. Set the belt tension according to the manufacturer's specification and tighten the pulley bolt. Do not over-tighten the belt: an overtightened belt whines and quickly wears out the tensioner pulley bearing.
  11. Turn the crankshaft by hand 2 full turns in the normal direction of rotation, return to the marks, and make sure all the marks line up. If they do not, move the belt by one tooth and repeat.
  12. Install the covers, the crankshaft pulley and the engine mount. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to specification (for engines in this class it is usually 80-130 N·m (59-96 lb-ft); confirm the exact value in the service manual). Install the accessory drive belt and the wheel.
  13. Reconnect the battery, start the engine, listen to it at idle and let it warm up. Check that there are no unusual noises. After 500-1000 km, check the belt tension and condition again.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • A mistake of even one tooth leads to hard starting, a rough-running engine (misfire) or valve-to-piston contact. Do not start the job if you are not sure of the procedure. Replace the timing belt typically every 60-90 thousand km or every 4-5 years, and always replace the pulleys and tensioner together with the belt.
How it works · 3D How a Car Engine Works How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →