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Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo (2nd generation, T17)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo/checking-the-cooling-system-for-leaks/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo (2nd generation, T17): Checking the Cooling System for Leaks

Coolant leaks most often come from hoses and clamps, the plastic radiator tanks, the expansion tank, the tank cap and the water pump. The most reliable approach is to combine a visual inspection on a cold and a warmed-up engine with a pressure test of the system. The exact procedure for this specific trim level is not documented in publicly available service materials, so below is a general principle that applies to this vehicle.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 40-60 minutes Steps: 16

Parts

6
№Part
01 Coolant hoseif a leak is found
02 Hose clampif a leak is found
03 Expansion tank capif a leak is found
04 Expansion tankif a leak is found
05 Radiatorif a leak is found
06 Coolantif a leak is found

Tools

6
  • flashlight
  • inspection mirror on a handle
  • manual cooling system pressure tester with a reservoir adapter
  • clean white cloth or cardboard
  • gloves
  • screwdriver set and pliers for hose clamps

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Start the check on a fully cooled-down engine. Park the vehicle on level ground and open the hood. Do not unscrew the expansion tank cap on a hot engine: the system is under pressure and you could be burned.
  2. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank. It should be between the MIN and MAX marks. Write down or photograph the level. If it drops over the next few days, you have a hidden leak.
  3. Inspect the expansion tank and cap for cracks along the seams, signs of seepage, and white or colored deposits (dried coolant). The rubber seal of the cap must be intact and the valve spring must work properly. It is better to replace a questionable cap, because a cap that has lost its seal will not hold pressure.
  4. Inspect all hoses and clamps: the upper and lower radiator hoses, the hoses to the thermostat and water pump, and the cabin heater hoses. Look for abrasion, bulges, cracks, softened or swollen rubber, loose clamps and dried coolant at the joints.
  5. Inspect the radiator: the joints between the plastic tanks and the aluminum core (a typical spot for hairline cracks), the fins and the hose connections. A flashlight and mirror will help you see behind the radiator and into the fan area.
  6. Inspect the water pump and thermostat: the weep hole of the pump and the joints of the thermostat housing. A wet or whitish trace indicates a worn pump seal or gasket.
  7. Check the heater hoses and heater core. A wet passenger-side floor mat, fogging windows and a sweetish smell in the cabin are signs of a leaking heater core or its hoses.
  8. Raise the vehicle on a lift or inspect it from below in a pit. If it gets in the way, remove the engine skid plate. Place white cardboard under the engine for 15-20 minutes after warm-up. Fresh drops and their color will be visible on it.
  9. Pressure test. With the engine cold, remove the expansion tank cap, install the tester adapter and pump up the pressure to the value marked on the tank cap (usually about 1.0-1.5 bar). Do not exceed this value, as you can damage the radiator and the tank.
  10. Hold the pressure for at least 5-10 minutes. If the gauge needle drops and there are no external traces, the leak may be internal (head gasket, oil cooler). Check the oil for emulsion (light brown foam on the dipstick and under the oil filler cap) and check the exhaust for white smoke and a sweet smell.
  11. While building up pressure, look over all connections for drops, wet spots and hissing. Wipe the marked spots dry and watch them again.
  12. Test the tank cap on the tester (if you have a cap adapter). It should release pressure within the stated range. If it opens earlier, replace it.
  13. Release the pressure and remove the tester. Warm the engine up to operating temperature (the fan will switch on) and inspect the system again. Some leaks appear only when hot, as the parts expand.
  14. After fixing the fault (replacing a hose, clamp, cap or tank), top up with coolant of the same type and color to the MAX mark if necessary. If you drained the coolant, bleed the air from the system. Warm the engine up with the heater set to maximum, watch the level in the tank and top it up.
  15. Tighten the clamps moderately, without stripping the thread or pinching the hose. As a guide, for worm-drive clamps, tighten firmly but without deforming the rubber, and for spring clamps, make sure they are seated in the correct position. Tighten the water pump and thermostat housing bolts strictly to the manufacturer's specification.
  16. After 2-3 days of driving, recheck the coolant level and make sure the connections are dry.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not unscrew the expansion tank cap on a hot engine
  • You could be burned by steam and hot coolant
  • Do not drive the vehicle with a coolant leak: overheating leads to cylinder head warping and head gasket failure
  • Coolant is toxic to people and animals, so wash off any spilled fluid
  • If the leak is internal (signs in the oil or white smoke) or you cannot find the leak yourself, take the vehicle to a repair shop
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