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Autopapyrus · Chevrolet Tracker (2nd Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chevrolet/tracker/front-sway-bar-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chevrolet Tracker (2nd Generation): Front Sway Bar Replacement

The sway bar is attached to the body (frame) through rubber bushings with brackets, and to the lower control arms through end links. Replace the bar if it is bent from an impact, cracked, or heavily corroded. If a knocking noise is caused only by wear, new bushings and end links are usually enough, and the bar can stay.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-3 hours Steps: 13

Parts

3
№Part
01 Front sway bar (complete bar)
02 Sway bar bushings with brackets (clamps)if worn, recommended to replace at the same time
03 Sway bar end linksleft and right, if worn, recommended to replace at the same time

Tools

8
  • floor jack and jack stands (or a lift)
  • lug wrench
  • socket and wrench set 14-19 mm
  • torque wrench
  • pry bar
  • penetrating oil
  • a hex key or open-end wrench to hold the end link stud if the nuts are seized
  • wire brush

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on level ground, chock the wheels, and loosen the front lug nuts. Jack up the front of the vehicle, set it on sturdy jack stands, and remove both front wheels.
  2. Apply penetrating oil to the threads of the end link and bushing bracket fasteners, then clean them with a wire brush. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes, because on vehicles of this age the threads often seize.
  3. If the engine skid plate or a plastic splash shield is in the way, remove it.
  4. Remove the upper and lower end link nuts on both sides. If the stud spins, hold it with a hex key or an open-end wrench. It is better to carefully heat a seized nut or cut it off than to break the stud.
  5. Remove the bolts of the sway bar bushing brackets (clamps) on the body or frame. Support the bar so it does not fall. Note the position and orientation of the brackets.
  6. Maneuver the bar down and out to the side. If it catches on the steering rack, crossmember, or exhaust system, move the obstructing parts slightly out of the way (lower them, but do not damage them). Do not stretch any wiring or lines.
  7. Inspect the mounting areas on the body. Clean off dirt and rust, and check the brackets for cracks. It is best to replace the bushings together with the bar, even if they look intact.
  8. Compare the new bar with the old one. The bends, length, diameter, and bushing seat locations must match. Slide the new bushings onto the bar, lightly lubricating them with silicone grease (not petroleum-based oil, which will make the rubber swell).
  9. Guide the bar into position, install the brackets with their bolts, and tighten them by hand only, without final tightening.
  10. Connect the end links to the bar and the control arms. Tighten the nuts by hand.
  11. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground so the suspension settles to its normal ride height. Do the final tightening of the bushing brackets and end links only with the suspension loaded. Otherwise the bushings will be twisted and will tear quickly.
  12. Tighten the fasteners with a torque wrench. Approximate values: bar bushing brackets 20-40 N·m (15-30 lb-ft), sway bar end link nuts 30-60 N·m (22-44 lb-ft), lug nuts 85-120 N·m (63-89 lb-ft). Verify the exact values against the manufacturer's specifications.
  13. Test drive: check that there are no knocks over bumps and that the car handles normally in corners. After 100-200 km, recheck the tightness of the connections.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job involves the suspension, which affects the vehicle's handling
  • Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; always use jack stands
  • If you lack experience or have doubts about the condition of the frame, body, or mounting points, have the work done at a repair shop
  • It is advisable to check the wheel alignment after the replacement
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