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Autopapyrus · Chrysler PT Cruiser 2.0 (2003)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chrysler/pt-cruiser/camshaft-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chrysler PT Cruiser 2.0 (2003): Camshaft Replacement

The 2.0 engine (141 hp) is a 16-valve DOHC with a timing belt drive. The two camshafts sit in an aluminum cylinder head on removable bearing caps. Replacing a camshaft always involves removing the timing belt, so replace all the timing components at the same time. The exact procedure and all torque values for this engine version are only partially documented in public sources, so the general sequence below uses ranges. Check the larger torque values against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-10 hours (including timing belt and seal replacement) Steps: 17

Parts

7
№Part
01 Camshaft (intake or exhaust) for 16-valve 2.0 DOHC engine
02 Timing belt kit (belt, idler pulleys, tensioner)
03 Camshaft and crankshaft sealsset
04 Valve cover gasket with spark plug well seals
05 Hydraulic lifters (tappets)replace as a set if the cam lobes are worn
06 Chrysler engine oil
07 Coolantif the system is drained

Tools

11
  • Socket set and ratchet
  • torque wrench (low range 5-30 N·m (4-22 lb-ft) and high range up to 150 N·m (111 lb-ft))
  • camshaft pulley holding tool (or a homemade one)
  • crankshaft pulley puller
  • long breaker bar
  • Torx and hex bit sockets
  • seal installer driver
  • sealant for the cover mating surface
  • engine oil for lubricating the journals
  • dial indicator or feeler gauge for checking end play
  • multimeter
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

17 steps
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the air filter housing with its ducts and the decorative cover. If the hoses are in the way, drain some of the coolant. Remove the engine undercover and the right front wheel with the fender liner.
  2. Remove the accessory drive belt and the upper and side timing belt covers. Disconnect the ignition coil wiring, the sensor connectors and the crankcase ventilation hose.
  3. Remove the spark plugs and check their condition (oil on the plugs or wear points to a problem with the camshaft or seals). Remove the ignition coils.
  4. Set the No. 1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke using the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys. Support the engine from below with a jack and a wooden block, and remove the right engine mount if it blocks access to the belt.
  5. Remove the crankshaft pulley (the bolt is very tight; keep the crankshaft from turning, and do not use the belt to lock it). Loosen the tensioner and remove the timing belt. If you are reusing the belt (not recommended), mark the direction of rotation first.
  6. Lock the camshaft pulleys and remove their bolts, then remove the pulleys. If any keys or pins fall out, don't lose them.
  7. Remove the valve cover: loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern, working from the center outward. Clean the mating surface and keep debris from getting inside.
  8. Before removing the bearing caps, mark their order and orientation (the caps are numbered and must go back in their original positions and direction). Loosen the cap bolts evenly in several passes in a crisscross pattern so the valve springs don't bend the camshaft.
  9. Remove the camshaft and inspect the journals and the bearing seats in the cylinder head. Scoring, deep scratches or stepped wear are a reason to check the condition of the cylinder head. Inspect the hydraulic lifters and followers. If the cam lobes are worn, replace all the lifters at once, not just individual ones.
  10. Lubricate the journals and lobes of the new camshaft with engine oil (use special assembly lube if needed for break-in). Lay the camshaft in place and check that the keyway or mark is in the correct position for TDC.
  11. Apply a thin layer of sealant to the mating edges of the caps where the design calls for it (where the cap meets the cylinder head). Install the caps in their positions and tighten the bolts evenly in several passes in a crisscross pattern. The torque for the small bearing cap bolts is about 10-15 N·m (7-11 lb-ft) (check the exact value in the service manual). Make sure the camshaft turns without binding.
  12. Press in the new camshaft seals with the driver until fully seated, lightly oiling the lip first. Install the pulleys and tighten the bolts while holding the pulleys with the holding tool. The torque is high (roughly 90-110 N·m (66-81 lb-ft); confirm with the service manual).
  13. Install the new timing belt, idler pulleys and tensioner according to the marks. Check that all the marks line up, then turn the crankshaft by hand two full revolutions and make sure the marks line up again. If you feel resistance while turning, stop immediately and find the cause (risk of valves hitting the pistons).
  14. Install the crankshaft pulley with a new bolt and tighten it according to the service manual (the torque is high and depends on the tightening sequence, which includes an additional angle turn). Install the timing belt covers, the accessory drive belt and the engine mount.
  15. Install the valve cover with a new gasket and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward. The torque is low, about 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft). Install the spark plugs (about 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft)), the coils, the hoses and the air filter housing, then reconnect the battery.
  16. Add fresh engine oil if needed (an oil and filter change is recommended after replacing the camshaft). Before starting, crank the engine with the starter without starting it (coils disconnected, fuel disabled) for 10-15 seconds to build oil pressure and fill the hydraulic lifters. Then start the engine, let it idle for 10-15 minutes, and check for leaks and smooth running.
  17. For the first 500-1000 km, drive gently and avoid high rpm. After that, check the oil level and make sure there are no leaks around the valve cover.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The 2.0 engine is an interference engine, so if the timing belt breaks or jumps a tooth, the valves will bend
  • Any mistake in lining up the marks can lead to a serious cylinder head repair
  • If you have no experience working on engine timing, have a repair shop do the job
  • Tighten all critical fasteners (pulley bolts, bearing caps) strictly with a torque wrench