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Autopapyrus · Daewoo Nexia 1.6 F16D3 (2008)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/daewoo/nexia/timing-belt-replacement-with-rollers-and-water-pump/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Daewoo Nexia 1.6 F16D3 (2008): Timing Belt Replacement with Rollers and Water Pump

The F16D3 in the Nexia N150 is a 16-valve engine with a timing belt. Under the maintenance schedule for the facelifted Nexia, the kit is replaced roughly every 40,000-60,000 km (25,000-37,000 miles) or every 4 years, whichever comes first. The water pump is driven by the same belt, so it is replaced at the same time. The engine is considered an interference engine (valves bend if the belt breaks), so do not cut corners on the belt and pulleys.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours Steps: 18 Tools: socket and wrench set, torque wrench, engine support stand or jack with a wooden block, jack stands or a lift, crankshaft pulley holder (or a helper), marker or paint for marks, drain pan for coolant, fresh coolant for refilling

Part

  • 🔩 timing kit for 1.6 16V (timing belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley), water pump with gasket or O-ring, coolant. It is best to buy a kit from a single manufacturer (Gates, Contitech, SKF, INA, Dayco). The exact OE belt number is not given here to avoid mistakes: select it by engine F16D3 (16 valves, 109 hp) and tooth count

Step by step

18 steps
  1. Shut off the engine and let it cool down. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Park the car on level ground, apply the parking brake, and place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
  2. Raise the front right of the car with a jack or lift, remove the wheel and the plastic fender liner to access the crankshaft pulley.
  3. Remove the accessory drive belt (alternator, power steering pump, A/C if equipped). Before doing so, mark the direction of rotation if the belt has already been used.
  4. Position a jack under the engine with a wooden block under the oil pan. Unbolt and remove the right engine mount together with its bracket to gain access to the upper timing cover. Keep the engine lightly supported with the jack.
  5. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers (plastic, bolted).
  6. Turn the crankshaft by the pulley bolt in the normal direction of rotation until the marks align: the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the block or cover, and the marks on both camshaft pulleys (intake and exhaust) with the marks on the cover or cylinder head. This is top dead center (TDC) of cylinder 1. Take a photo of the mark positions. If the factory marks are not visible, make your own with a marker on the belt and pulleys.
  7. Lock the crankshaft against turning (holder tool, or put the car in gear with a helper). Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. It is tightened very firmly, so use a long breaker bar. Remove the pulley and, if necessary, the timing sprocket.
  8. Loosen the tensioner pulley and remove the old belt. The direction arrows on the new belt must match the engine's direction of rotation.
  9. Do not turn the camshafts or the crankshaft with the belt removed. Check that the marks have not moved.
  10. Drain the coolant, remove the water pump fasteners and take the pump off. Clean the mounting surface of old sealing material. Install the new pump with a new gasket or O-ring and tighten the bolts evenly to the torque specified for the engine.
  11. Remove and replace the tensioner and idler pulleys. Spin them by hand: if they are noisy, have play or bind, replacement is mandatory.
  12. Install the new belt in this order: first onto the crankshaft sprocket, then in the direction of travel the idler pulley, the camshaft pulleys, the water pump, and the tensioner pulley. The belt run between the crankshaft and the camshaft must be taut, and the marks must still line up.
  13. Adjust the tension according to the procedure for your tensioner: with an eccentric tensioner, rotate it to the position set by the marks or pointer and lock it with the bolt. Tighten only to the specified torque. A belt that is too tight whines and quickly destroys the pulleys and pump, while a loose one can jump a tooth.
  14. Turn the crankshaft two full revolutions in the normal direction of rotation and make sure the marks line up again. If they do not, remove the belt and repeat the installation.
  15. Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt with a torque wrench. The torque is high (around 100-130 N·m (74-96 lb-ft), and in some versions with an additional angle turn). Check the exact value against the manufacturer's specification for the F16D3.
  16. Reinstall the timing covers, engine mount, accessory drive belt, fender liner and wheel. Tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern.
  17. Refill the coolant and bleed the air from the system: start the engine, set the heater to maximum, and hold the revs at 2000-2500 rpm until the cooling fan switches on and the level stabilizes. Top up the reservoir.
  18. Check the pump for leaks, and check the belt at idle and at higher revs. After 500-1000 km (300-600 miles), inspect the covers and belt tension, and readjust if necessary.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • If the belt breaks or jumps, the F16D3 bends its valves, so the marks must be set precisely and the two-revolution check after installation is mandatory. Never fit old pulleys or an old water pump with a new belt. If you lack experience, it is better to leave the job to a repair shop: an error of a single tooth leads to cylinder head repair.
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