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Autopapyrus · DAF XF 105 12.9 MX-340 (2013)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/daf/xf/engine-overhaul-xf-105-2013/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

DAF XF 105 12.9 MX-340 (2013): Engine Overhaul

The MX-13 (6 cylinders, 130 mm bore, 162 mm stroke, 12.9 L (13.6 qt)) has removable wet liners, so the block is usually not bored the way a conventional engine is. Worn liners are replaced together with the pistons. The block is inspected for liner seat (ledge) wear, cracks, and the condition of the crankshaft bearing saddles. Take all dimensions, clearances and torque specs strictly from the manufacturer's service manual for your engine version.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-7 working days in a shop setting (engine removal and installation 1-2 days, inspection and machining at an engine machine shop, assembly 1-2 days) Steps: 16 Tools: Hoist or overhead crane and engine stand, lifting beam, torque wrenches (up to 600 N·m (443 lb-ft)), timing marking and locking kit, bore gauge and micrometers, feeler gauge, Plastigage, wet liner puller, seal installation drivers, valve spring compressor, compression tester or cylinder leak-down tester, liner protrusion measuring set

Part

  • 🔩 12.9 L (13.6 qt) MX-13 overhaul kit: pistons with rings and pins, cylinder liners, main and rod bearings, crankshaft thrust washers, gasket set and liner O-rings, cylinder head gasket, cylinder head bolts and connecting rod bolts (single-use), valve stem seals, oil pump and oil pickup tube (as needed), water pump, thermostat, oil filter, fuel filters. Machine shop work is extra

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Before disassembly, determine whether an overhaul is really needed. Run a compression or cylinder leak-down test, and check blow-by, oil consumption, oil pressure and engine noises. Make sure the cause is not the turbocharger, the crankcase ventilation or the injectors.
  2. Prepare the truck: disconnect the battery ground, drain the oil and coolant, and remove the engine undershield. Tilt the cab or otherwise gain access from the front or top, depending on the design. Disconnect the wiring harnesses, intercooler pipes, exhaust and aftertreatment system, compressor, fuel pump and fuel lines, radiator, power steering and A/C (do not open the A/C circuit; have the refrigerant recovered). Label all connectors and hoses.
  3. Separate the engine from the transmission, lift the engine out with a lifting beam and mount it on the stand. The engine weighs about 1000 kg (about 2200 lb) or more, so use only certified, serviceable lifting equipment.
  4. Remove the ancillaries: turbocharger, exhaust and intake manifolds, injectors, starter, alternator, water pump, thermostat. Remove the valve cover and rocker arms. Before disassembling the timing drive, lock and mark the position of the shafts.
  5. Remove the cylinder head, loosening the bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence, in several passes. Treat the head bolts as single-use once removed. Check the head flatness with a straightedge and feeler gauge, and pressure test the head for cracks.
  6. Turn the engine over and remove the oil pan, oil pickup tube and oil pump. Mark the order of the connecting rods and caps (the numbers must match). Remove the rod bolts and push the pistons out upward together with the rods. Then remove the main bearing caps and the crankshaft.
  7. Pull the wet liners with a liner puller, taking care not to damage the liner seats. Inspect the seats in the block for cavitation and erosion, check the block for cracks, and clean the oil and coolant passages. If the crankshaft saddles in the block are damaged or the shaft has spun the bearings, the block must be line-bored or replaced.
  8. Crankshaft inspection: measure the main and rod journals with a micrometer for out-of-round and taper, and check runout and the condition of the thrust surfaces. If the journals are out of tolerance, the shaft is ground to an undersize at the machine shop and bearings of the matching size are used. If grinding is not permitted, replace the shaft.
  9. Connecting rod inspection: check the geometry (bend and twist), the condition of the small-end bushing and the dimensions of the big end. Damaged rods are replaced. Use new pistons, piston pins and retaining clips.
  10. Cylinder head inspection: measure valve guide wear, and check the valve seats, valve faces and springs. Replace the valve stem seals, replace the guides if they are worn, and lap or regrind the seats if needed. Before installing the seals, fit a protective sleeve or film over the end of the valve stem so you don't cut the seal lip. Lubricate the stems with engine oil.
  11. Preparation for assembly: thoroughly wash the block and all passages and blow them out with compressed air. Install the new liners in the block with new O-rings, lubricating them as the manufacturer recommends (use only the specified lubricant). Check the liner protrusion above the block deck against the specification; it is critical for the head gasket.
  12. Install the bearing shells in the saddles and check the oil clearances with Plastigage or by calculation from measurements. Lay in the crankshaft and tighten the main bearing caps with a torque wrench in several passes, then angle-tighten to specification if required. Check that the shaft turns freely and check the end play.
  13. Install the rings on the pistons in the correct orientation (TOP marking, end gaps staggered around the circumference). Lubricate, compress with a ring compressor, and insert the pistons into the liners. Install the rods according to the marks and in the correct direction, tighten the rod bolts with torque plus angle to specification, then check that the shaft turns freely.
  14. Install the oil pump, oil pickup tube and oil pan with new gaskets or sealant as specified. Fit the cylinder head with a new gasket and new bolts, tightening strictly in the specified sequence and in several stages. Set the valve lash and the timing drive according to the marks.
  15. Assemble the ancillaries, install the engine in the truck and reconnect all systems. Fill with oil and coolant that meet DAF specifications. Before the first start, crank the engine with the starter with the fuel supply disabled until oil pressure builds, and prime the fuel system.
  16. First start and break-in: start the engine and let it idle without load, checking oil pressure, leaks and temperature. For the first 1000-2000 km (600-1250 miles), avoid full load and prolonged high rpm. After 1000-2000 km (600-1250 miles), change the oil and oil filter, then check the tightness of fasteners and look for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a complex job that requires precise measurements and proper equipment; if you lack experience, leave the machining and assembly to a specialist MX/PACCAR engine shop. After work on an engine with an aftertreatment system (AdBlue, diesel particulate filter), check that there are no fault codes and that the filter is not clogged with debris from the earlier wear. If the overhaul was caused by overheating or by coolant getting into the oil, be sure to flush the cooling and lubrication systems and replace the oil cooler.
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