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Autopapyrus · DAF XF 106 (2021)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/daf/xf/zf-traxon-automated-transmission-removal-and-installation/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

DAF XF 106 (2021): ZF TraXon Automated Transmission Removal and Installation

The DAF XF 106 with the MX-13 engine is fitted with the 12-speed ZF TraXon automated transmission (12TX series). The transmission is heavy, roughly 250-300 kg (550-660 lb), so it must only be removed with a transmission jack and a helper. The exact step-by-step procedure and torque specifications for your variant are not documented in open sources, so the general principle is given below. Take all torque values from the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-10 hours (including preparation, on a lift or in a pit, two people) Steps: 16 Tools: lift or inspection pit, transmission jack (gearbox stand) with alignment pins, frame stands, socket and wrench set, torque wrench, connector release tool/pry bar, oil drain pan (about 20-25 L (21-26 qt)), clean rags, DAF diagnostic tester (DAVIE or equivalent) for calibration

Part

  • 🔩 consumables: transmission oil to the ZF specification for TraXon (capacity and grade per the data plate and service manual), a sealing ring/seals if needed, zip ties and connector clips. If wear is found: release bearing and clutch fork, complete clutch kit (cover, driven disc, release mechanism). Clutch kit: check with your parts supplier

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Preparation. Park the truck on level ground, chock the wheels, and disconnect the battery ground. If the cab has air suspension, release the pressure and make sure the cab is secured. Tilt the cab if necessary and lock it with the factory support.
  2. Drain the oil from the transmission through the drain plug. Wipe the area around the plug, and while draining, check the plug (magnet) for metal shavings.
  3. Remove the driveshaft. First mark the flange positions with paint to preserve balance. Undo the fasteners, lower the shaft and tie it up or remove it completely.
  4. Disconnect anything that interferes with removal: exhaust pipes or brackets if they are in the way, the guard, the transmission air tank or air lines, and wiring brackets.
  5. Disconnect the transmission electrical connectors (control unit, speed sensors, clutch position sensor, neutral sensor, etc.). Label the connectors and air lines for correct reinstallation.
  6. Disconnect the clutch actuator air line and the air cylinder, if it is mounted externally, and cap the fittings to keep dirt out.
  7. Roll the transmission jack under the transmission, secure the transmission with a chain or strap, and take up its weight slightly.
  8. Remove the crossmember or transmission mounts if they are in the way, and undo the bolts that secure the clutch housing to the engine block. Write down or photograph the number and location of the bolts, as their lengths differ.
  9. Pull the transmission straight back along its axis until the input shaft is completely clear of the driven disc hub. Do not put any load on the shaft, and do not let the transmission hang on the input shaft.
  10. Lower the transmission and pull it out. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, release bearing and fork. If there is wear or oil on the clutch, replace the kit.
  11. Before installation, apply a thin layer of special grease to the input shaft splines (choose the grease according to the manufacturer's recommendation, and keep it off the friction surfaces). Check that the bearing and fork move freely.
  12. Install in the reverse order. Check alignment with the jack, and if needed, install alignment pins in place of two bolts, then fit the standard bolts after tightening. Tighten the clutch housing bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or three passes to the torque specified in the service manual.
  13. Connect all connectors and air lines according to the marks, install the driveshaft, and tighten the flanges to the specified torque (flange bolts are often single-use, so verify).
  14. Fill with oil of the correct specification to the level of the check hole or to the capacity stated on the transmission data plate, observing the specified checking temperature.
  15. Connect the battery and check the air system for leaks. Then perform transmission adaptation and clutch calibration with the diagnostic tester (teach the clutch touch point, position calibration). Without this, the transmission will shift harshly or will not engage a gear.
  16. Warm up the transmission, take a test drive, and check for leaks, fault codes and shift smoothness.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The transmission weighs several hundred kilograms. Work only on solid stands and with a transmission jack, and never stand under an unsecured transmission. Do not let the weight of the transmission hang on the input shaft during installation: this damages the splines and the clutch disc. Without calibration using diagnostic equipment after installation, the transmission will not work correctly. If you have no experience with heavy trucks and do not have suitable equipment, leave the job to a repair shop.