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Autopapyrus · Dodge Caliber 2.0 (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/dodge/caliber/thermostat-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Dodge Caliber 2.0 (2007): Thermostat Replacement

On the 2.0 (World Engine family), the thermostat sits in a housing on the lower coolant hose, so you will need to drain the coolant to replace it. Typical signs of failure: the engine takes a long time to warm up or overheats, the heater blows weakly, and the temperature gauge wanders. The exact torque specs and bolt locations for this variant are not confirmed in public sources, so the procedure below is general.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2.5 hours Steps: 10 Tools: Socket set and ratchet (8-13 mm), screwdriver, hose clamp pliers, drain pan for coolant (at least 7 L (7.4 qt)), funnel, shop rags, torque wrench

Part

  • 🔩 Thermostat with housing (complete assembly) for the 2.0/2.4 in the PM body, plus the housing O-ring or gasket. On this engine the thermostat is usually sold together with the housing, and replacing it as an assembly is more reliable. Coolant: per Chrysler specification (HOAT/OAT type, as filled at the factory), about 6-7 L (6.3-7.4 qt), with some extra for flushing
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Let the engine cool down completely. Open the coolant reservoir cap only on a cold engine, otherwise you can get burned by steam and hot coolant.
  2. Park the car on level ground and disconnect the negative battery terminal. If a plastic splash shield or air duct is in the way, remove it.
  3. Place the drain pan under the radiator and drain the coolant through the radiator drain valve. If there is no drain valve, remove the lower hose and drain the coolant through it. Drain enough so that the level is below the thermostat housing.
  4. Locate the thermostat housing where the radiator hose meets the engine. Trace the hose from the radiator to the engine. If access is difficult, remove the air duct and any other parts in the way.
  5. Disconnect the temperature sensor connector (if it is on the housing) and loosen the hose clamps. Remove the hoses by twisting them on their fittings. Old hoses that are cracked or swollen are best replaced.
  6. Remove the housing mounting bolts (usually 2-3 bolts) and take off the housing. It may be seated on an O-ring. Clean any remains of the old seal from the mating surface, taking care not to drop anything into the engine.
  7. Install the new housing with thermostat and a new seal. Tighten the bolts evenly and do not overtighten: the housing is plastic and cracks easily. Check the torque (a rough guide is 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft)) against the manufacturer's specification.
  8. Reinstall the hoses and clamps, reconnect the sensor connector, and refit the shield and air duct you removed.
  9. Fill with coolant of the same type through the reservoir up to the MAX mark. Start the engine with the cap open, set the heater to maximum, and hold the engine at about 2000 rpm. Watch the level and top up as needed. Warm the engine up until the thermostat opens: the upper radiator hose should become hot and the fan should switch on.
  10. Stop the engine, check the connections for leaks, let it cool, and top up to the proper level. Take a short drive, then check the level and temperature again on a cold engine.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • An air pocket in the cooling system causes overheating, so bleed the air out thoroughly. If the engine overheats, shut it off immediately, otherwise the cylinder head may warp. Used coolant is toxic, so dispose of it properly. If you have never removed coolant hoses before or are not sure about access to the housing, it is better to leave the job to a repair shop.
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