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Autopapyrus · Ford Fiesta 1.4 TDCi F6JA (2006)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/fiesta/throttle-body-removal-and-cleaning/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Fiesta 1.4 TDCi F6JA (2006): Throttle Body Removal and Cleaning

On the 1.4 TDCi (F6JA) diesel, the intake throttle flap is mounted on the intake manifold at the end of the pipe from the turbocharger and works together with the EGR valve: when the EGR opens, the flap partially closes to create the vacuum needed for recirculation. Soot and oil vapor cause the flap to stick, which leads to loss of power, smoke, EGR fault codes and limp mode. The exact procedure for this model is only partially documented in publicly available service materials, so the general procedure below takes the specifics of this unit into account.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 13

Parts

3
№PartGenuine part no.Alternatives
01 Throttle body gasket/O-ring set, 1.4 TDCi 1207153
1207154
02 Throttle body assembly (flap with actuator)if worn 1333386
03 Throttle body cleaner Liqui Moly, WD-40 Specialist, Wurth

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

9
  • Socket set and ratchet (usually Torx and/or 8-10 mm sockets)
  • screwdriver
  • hose clamp pliers
  • throttle body/diesel intake cleaner
  • rags
  • soft brush
  • gloves
  • safety glasses
  • diagnostic scanner (for adaptation after installation)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 20 more. See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Shut off the engine and let it cool down. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 5-10 minutes.
  2. Remove the engine cover and, if necessary, the air duct/resonator that blocks access to the boost pipe.
  3. Locate the throttle body: it is on the left side (in the direction of travel) of the intake manifold, at the end of the outlet pipe from the turbo/intercooler. The EGR valve is next to it.
  4. Disconnect the electrical connector of the flap actuator (press the locking tab, do not pull on the wires). Disconnect the vacuum hoses, if your version has any, and label them.
  5. Loosen the boost pipe clamp and remove the pipe. Inspect it for oil traces: a light film is normal, but heavy oil indicates turbo wear or a crankcase ventilation problem.
  6. Remove the unit's mounting bolts (usually 2-4) and take the unit off the manifold. Keep the fasteners within reach and do not drop them into the intake. Immediately plug the manifold opening with a clean rag (do not leave any shreds inside).
  7. Inspect the flap: check that it moves freely by hand or, if possible, by moving the lever/shaft manually. If the flap binds, sticks or has play, replace the complete unit.
  8. Clean the housing and flap with cleaner and a soft brush. Do not immerse the electrical part of the actuator in liquid and do not spray cleaner into it. Do not use abrasives or wire brushes.
  9. Wipe it dry and let it air dry for 5-10 minutes. At the same time, clean the mating surface on the manifold and the EGR passages that are accessible without disassembly; remove the rag from the manifold.
  10. Replace the seal/gasket and install the unit in reverse order. Tighten the bolts evenly and with low torque (approximately 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft); for the exact value, follow the manufacturer's specification). Do not overtighten, as the housing is plastic or thin-walled.
  11. Install the boost pipe, tighten the clamp, reconnect the connector and vacuum hoses, refit the air duct and cover, and reconnect the battery.
  12. Turn the ignition on for 10-15 seconds without starting, then start the engine. If the Check Engine light is on or the flap has not been learned, perform the adaptation (position learning) with a scanner that supports Ford, then clear the codes.
  13. Take a 10-15 minute test drive, revving the engine under load, and check for air leaks (whistling, loss of power) and fault codes.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not let dirt or fasteners get into the intake tract, as this quickly destroys the turbocharger
  • If the flap stuck because of soot, also check the EGR valve and the condition of the intake manifold, since the cause is most often shared
  • If you have no experience with intake electronics or cannot complete the adaptation, take the car to a repair shop