Autopapyrus · Ford Ka 1.3 Endura-E (1997)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/ka/diagnosing-a-no-start-condition-when-the-starter-cranks/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/ka/diagnosing-a-no-start-condition-when-the-starter-cranks/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Ford Ka 1.3 Endura-E (1997): Diagnosing a No-Start Condition When the Starter Cranks
If the starter cranks normally but the engine won't catch, check three things: fuel, spark and the crankshaft sensor signal. Separately, rule out the anti-theft immobilizer and a tripped inertia fuel shutoff switch. The checks go from simple to complex and don't require disassembling the engine.
Parts
7| № | Part | Genuine part no. |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Fuel pump relayif faulty | |
| 02 | Fuel pump assembly with in-tank moduleif faulty | 1073602 |
| 1067973 | ||
| 03 | Fuel filterif faulty | |
| 04 | Crankshaft position sensorif faulty | |
| 05 | Ignition coil (module)if faulty | |
| 06 | Spark plug set for 1.3 Endura-Eif faulty | 1216460 |
| 1085952 | ||
| 07 | High-tension (spark plug) leadsif faulty |
Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.
Tools
7- multimeter
- test light or spark tester
- fuel pressure gauge (if possible)
- socket and wrench set
- spark plug socket
- screwdrivers
- OBD scan tool (if possible)
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 9 more.
See manuals →
Step by step
9 steps- Check the obvious: fuel level (the gauge may be wrong), battery charge and terminal condition. If the starter cranks sluggishly, a weak battery gives too little cranking speed to start the engine and a weak spark. Charging or replacing the battery may solve the problem.
- Look at the anti-theft system indicator on the instrument cluster. If it flashes frequently or stays on after you switch the ignition on, the key isn't recognized and the control module is blocking the start. Try a spare key, and check that there are no other keys or key fobs near the ignition switch. If the immobilizer rejects the spare key too, dealer equipment is needed to reprogram it.
- Turn the ignition on and listen near the fuel tank. The fuel pump should hum for a second or two. If it's silent, check the inertia fuel cutoff switch. It trips on impact or severe jolting, and it has a reset button that you need to press. Then check the fuel pump fuse and relay in the fuse box. You can swap the relay with an identical one.
- If the pump runs but the engine won't start, check the fuel pressure with a gauge at the fuel rail or in the fuel line. Low pressure means a clogged fuel filter, a weak pump or a problem with the pressure regulator. The fuel in the system must be fresh and free of water. This is especially important after the car has been sitting for a long time.
- Check for spark. Remove the spark plugs and inspect them: plugs wet with gasoline mean there is no spark or only a weak one, while dry plugs mean no fuel is reaching the cylinders. Connect a plug to its lead, press its threaded body against an engine ground, and have a helper crank the engine. You need a steady blue spark. If you don't have a spark tester, don't hold the lead with your hand.
- If there is no spark on any cylinder, suspect a common cause: the crankshaft position sensor, the ignition coil or module, the connectors and the coil's power supply. Check the connectors for corrosion and broken wires. Measure the crankshaft sensor resistance with a multimeter and compare it to the specification for your engine in the service manual. If the resistance reads open-circuit or the sensor is dirty, replace it. Failure of this sensor is typical for a "cranks but won't start" condition. If there is spark on only a pair of cylinders, look for the problem in the coil or the spark plug leads.
- If both spark and fuel are present, check the air path: the air filter, the intake hoses, the throttle body itself, and any vacuum leaks. Also check the timing belt or chain. If the engine cranks suspiciously easily, without the usual compression resistance, the timing drive may have broken. In that case, don't crank the engine with the starter any further, and check the timing mechanically by removing the belt cover.
- Read the fault code memory with an OBD scan tool if you can. Codes for the crankshaft sensor, the fuel pump or the immobilizer narrow down the search considerably.
- After replacing the faulty part, test the start. If the spark plugs were flooded, dry them or replace them. Tighten them to the torque given in the service manual, usually in the range of 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft). Don't try to start the engine with long cranking attempts: crank the starter for no more than 10-15 seconds at a time, with pauses between attempts.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Work on the fuel system away from open flames, with the battery disconnected whenever you don't need to test the pump, and with a fire extinguisher nearby
- Gasoline can spray out when pressure is released, so cover the connections with a rag
- If there is no spark but the sensor, coil and wiring are all fine, or if you suspect the control module or the anti-theft system, take the car to a specialized shop with diagnostic equipment