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Autopapyrus · Ford Transit 2.2 TDCi 125 hp (2014)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ford/transit/fuel-injector-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Ford Transit 2.2 TDCi 125 hp (2014): Fuel Injector Replacement

The 2.2 TDCi injectors are part of a solenoid-controlled Common Rail system. After replacement, each new injector must be coded (programming of its individual calibration code) into the engine control unit. The job demands extreme cleanliness: not a speck of dirt may get into the high-pressure system.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-8 hours (4 injectors; longer if the injectors are seized) Steps: 15

Parts

7
№PartGenuine part no.Alternatives
01 Common Rail fuel injector, 2.2 TDCi Duratorq (Puma) 125 hp4 pcs. 1746967 Delphi, Bosch
1840747
2079601
02 Copper injector sealing washer4 pcs.
03 Injector heat shield washer or seal ringif not included in the set 1745686
1854206
1673574
04 Injector return line seal
05 Valve cover gasket 1848542
06 Fuel filterrecommended to replace at the same time
07 High-pressure fuel linesif needed 1717574
2073143
2073157

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

9
  • Socket set and ratchet
  • torque wrench
  • flare-nut (split) wrenches for high-pressure lines
  • injector puller or slide hammer for Duratorq injectors
  • socket for the injector hold-down clamp
  • brush and clean lint-free cloth
  • caps/plugs for fuel fittings
  • scan tool with injector coding (calibration code programming) function
  • syringe or container for fuel
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 10 more. See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Determine the cause of the problem: check the control unit for fault codes with a scan tool, and check cylinder balance, correction values and return flow for each injector. Replace injectors only after confirmed diagnosis, not just because of smoky exhaust.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes. Shut off the engine and let it cool down. The system is under high pressure: do not disconnect fuel lines on a running engine or one that has just been shut off.
  3. Remove the engine cover, air ducts and anything else that blocks access to the valve cover and the fuel rail. Thoroughly clean the injectors, the rail and the surrounding area with a brush and compressed air while everything is still assembled.
  4. Disconnect the injector electrical connectors (carefully press the connector lock; the plastic on older engines is brittle) and label them by cylinder.
  5. Disconnect the injector return line. Use caps on the open fittings so fuel does not leak out and dirt does not get inside.
  6. Loosen and remove the high-pressure lines from the rail to the injectors (with a flare-nut wrench, without excessive force). If you reuse used lines, check the cone for deformation and replace them if in doubt. Immediately cap all open fittings.
  7. Remove the valve cover if you cannot reach the injector hold-down clamps without doing so.
  8. Remove the bolt and the hold-down clamp of each injector. Pull out the injector: if it is stuck, use a special slide-hammer puller. Do not pry it with a pry bar or knock it out with a hammer, since it is easy to damage the seat in the cylinder head.
  9. Clean the injector bores in the cylinder head of carbon and deposits with a special tool or a soft brush, without dropping anything into the cylinder. Make sure the old copper washer came out with the injector and did not stay at the bottom of the bore.
  10. Install the new injectors with new copper washers on the tip. Seat each injector straight, without tilting. Install the hold-down clamps and tighten the bolts in several stages to the manufacturer's specified torque (Duratorq injector clamps use a low torque plus, if required, an angle turn; check the exact value against the data for your engine).
  11. Install the high-pressure lines. First thread the nuts on by hand and make sure the cone seats without tilting, then tighten with a torque wrench to spec (typically about 25-30 N·m (18-22 lb-ft) for these fittings, but use the exact manufacturer's value).
  12. Reconnect the injector return line with new seals and the electrical connectors, then install the valve cover with a new gasket (tighten the bolts evenly, in sequence, to a low torque per spec) and refit the removed parts.
  13. Replace the fuel filter, fill the system with fuel and prime it with the hand pump (if equipped) until you feel firm resistance. Reconnect the battery.
  14. Connect the scan tool and program the codes (calibration values) of each new injector according to the cylinder it is installed in. Without this the engine will run roughly, smoke, and may not start.
  15. Crank the engine with the starter without starting it for 10-15 seconds to purge air, then start the engine. With the engine running, check for fuel leaks around the lines, the rail and the return line (visually, at low rpm only, never with your hand). Clear the fault codes and take a test drive.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Fuel in the rail is under very high pressure (hundreds of bar at idle), and a jet can penetrate the skin
  • Never open fuel lines on a running engine
  • If you have no experience with Common Rail systems and no equipment for coding injectors, leave the job to a specialist repair shop
  • After replacement, all new injectors must be coded, and seized old injectors should be removed only with a puller