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Autopapyrus · Great Wall Sailor 2.8 TC Diesel (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/great-wall/sailor/alternator-drive-belt-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Great Wall Sailor 2.8 TC Diesel (2007): Alternator Drive Belt Replacement

On the Sailor diesel, the alternator belt drives the alternator and, on many versions, the water pump or power steering pump. The exact procedure for this model and engine is not documented in public service materials, so the steps below describe the general principle. The drive layout and tensioning method depend on the trim and version. Compare the belt routing and mounting points with what you see under the hood.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-60 minutes Steps: 10 Tools: Socket and wrench set (usually 10-19 mm), ratchet or breaker bar, pry bar or breaker bar for the tensioner, flashlight, gloves, marker or chalk

Part

  • 🔩 Alternator (accessory) drive belt for the 2.8 TC diesel. If the belt is worn, also check the tensioner and idler pulleys, if your engine version has them

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Shut off the engine and let it cool down. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. If a plastic cover or fan shroud is in the way, remove it.
  2. Take a photo or sketch the belt routing around the pulleys. Note which components the belt drives: alternator, water pump, power steering pump, A/C compressor.
  3. If a power steering or A/C belt sits in front of the alternator belt, remove it first. To do this, loosen the tension on the corresponding component.
  4. Determine the tensioning type. On engines like this, the alternator most often pivots on two bolts: the lower one (pivot) and the upper one (a slotted bracket with an adjusting bolt). Loosen both bolts a couple of turns, without removing them completely.
  5. Loosen the adjusting bolt or nut on the bracket and move the alternator toward the engine so the belt goes slack. If you have an automatic tensioner pulley, push it back with a wrench or breaker bar.
  6. Remove the belt from the pulleys. Inspect the pulleys: the grooves should be clean, with no rust, oil or scoring. Check that the alternator bearing and the idler pulleys spin without play or noise.
  7. Install the new belt following the routing you photographed. Make sure it sits in the grooves across its full width.
  8. Tension the belt. Pry the alternator away from the engine with a lever (on the housing, not on the cover or plastic parts) until the belt deflection at the midpoint of the longest span is about 8-12 mm when pressed with your finger using roughly 10 kg (22 lb) of force. Then tighten the upper and lower bolts. For torque values, see the manufacturer's specifications. For bolts of this type, the standard values for their diameter usually apply.
  9. Turn the crankshaft 2-3 revolutions using the crankshaft pulley bolt and recheck the belt tension and seating. Reinstall the belts, covers and battery terminal you removed.
  10. Start the engine and check that the belt runs evenly, with no squealing or wobble. A charge warning light that stays on together with squealing right after startup means the belt is slipping. Shut off the engine and add tension. Check the tension again after 100-200 km (60-125 miles), because a new belt stretches.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Work with the engine off and the battery disconnected, and keep your fingers away from the pulleys and belt. Do not overtighten the belt: it ruins the alternator and water pump bearings. If the belt breaks again, look for the cause in a seized bearing or misaligned pulleys. If you are not sure about the belt routing or cannot reach the mounting points, have a repair shop do the job.