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Autopapyrus · Honda Civic FK/FN (8th generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/honda/civic/rear-engine-mount-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Honda Civic FK/FN (8th generation): Rear Engine Mount Replacement

The rear engine mount on the Honda Civic VIII (FK/FN) is a torque rod with rubber-metal bushings, attached to the subframe and the engine block. Typical signs of wear are vibration at idle, noticeable rearward engine movement on hard acceleration from a stop, and cracked or separated rubber. The replacement is done from underneath, on a lift or over a pit, and the engine must be supported with a jack.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours Steps: 11 Tools: jack, wooden block, 17 mm and 19 mm sockets or combination wrenches, torque wrench

Part

  • 🔩 Honda 50890-SNA-A82 (OEM, rear engine mount / torque rod). Alternatives: Febest HM-049, RBI T2210118
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 31 more. See manuals →

Step by step

11 steps
  1. Raise the front of the vehicle on a lift, or position it over a pit, and secure it with wheel chocks so it cannot roll.
  2. Open the hood, place a wooden block (5-8 cm thick) under the oil pan, set a jack under it, and lightly support the engine. Take some of the weight off the mounts, but do not lift the engine.
  3. Get under the vehicle and locate the rear engine mount / torque rod. It connects the lower part of the engine to the subframe and runs roughly horizontally.
  4. Using a 17 mm socket, remove the two front bolts securing the torque rod to the bracket on the engine, then remove the clamp plate.
  5. Using the same 17 mm socket, remove the rear bolt securing the torque rod to the engine bracket.
  6. Using a 19 mm socket, remove the three bolts securing the rear part of the mount to the subframe, and remove the entire torque rod.
  7. Inspect the old mount. Signs that replacement is needed include swollen or cracked rubber, rubber separating from the metal bushings, and cracks in the bracket.
  8. Install the new mount in reverse order. First thread all bolts in by hand, then tighten them evenly.
  9. Tighten the subframe bolts (19 mm) with a torque wrench to 65-70 N·m (48-52 lb-ft).
  10. Tighten the engine bolts (17 mm) to 60-65 N·m (44-48 lb-ft).
  11. Remove the jack from under the oil pan, lower the vehicle, start the engine, and check for vibration at idle and when you press the throttle sharply.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not use an impact wrench for final tightening. Use only a torque wrench. Overtightening deforms the rubber elements, and undertightening lets the bolts work loose and the mount fail. All bolts should be tightened with the engine under its natural load (jack removed, engine resting on its own mounts). This prevents premature rubber wear caused by pre-stress.