← N Series (Npr/Nqr)
Autopapyrus · Isuzu N-series NPR/NQR (5th generation, Elf)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/isuzu/n-series-npr-nqr/windshield-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Isuzu N-series NPR/NQR (5th generation, Elf): Windshield Replacement

The windshield on 5th-generation Isuzu N-series trucks (Elf) is bonded in with polyurethane adhesive. Replacement comes down to carefully cutting out the old adhesive, preparing the mounting surface, installing the new glass on fresh adhesive, and letting it cure. I give the torque values and the wiper removal sequence for this cab as general guidance only. Check them against the markings on the fasteners on your truck.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 2-3 hours (plus adhesive cure time before the vehicle is safe to drive, per the adhesive manufacturer's instructions) Steps: 14 Tools: Windshield cut-out wire with handles or an electric/pneumatic cut-out knife, suction cup windshield lifters (2), plastic trim removal tools for moldings, screwdriver, socket set, urethane adhesive caulking gun, glass and body primer, activator/degreaser, gloves, safety glasses, masking tape, a helper

Part

  • 🔩 Windshield for an Isuzu N-series (Elf) cab, 2020 model year. The cab type (narrow/wide) and equipment (rain sensor, heating, tint) are determined from the old windshield. Also needed: a urethane windshield adhesive kit with primers, a new gasket or molding (if not included with the glass), and replacement molding clips/retainers if necessary. I'm not giving an exact OE part number for your cab, to avoid getting it wrong. Match the glass using the markings on the old windshield

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Park the truck on level ground under cover, at a temperature of roughly 5-30 °C (41-86 °F). Open the door windows so that pressure doesn't build up when you close the doors after installation.
  2. Remove the wiper arms: remove the decorative caps from the nuts, unscrew the arm nuts, and pull the arms off the splined shafts. Remember the "park" position of the arms, or mark it with tape.
  3. Remove the plastic cowl panel below the windshield (the air intake panel) if it covers the lower edge of the glass: remove the fasteners and release the clips with a plastic trim tool. Also remove the upper and side moldings/pillar trim if they cover the adhesive.
  4. If there is a rearview mirror mounted on the glass, a rain sensor, a camera, or an antenna, disconnect the connectors and carefully separate the brackets/sensors. Release the rain sensor by its latches, without jerking.
  5. Protect the paint and the dashboard around the opening with tape and covers. Cover the interior with plastic sheeting to keep out adhesive debris and glass fragments.
  6. Cut out the adhesive: pass the wire through the adhesive bead from the inside (or pierce it with an awl), secure the ends to the handles, and separate the glass around the perimeter with a sawing motion. Alternatively, use a cut-out knife. Do not damage the body paint or the heating wiring, if equipped.
  7. With two people, lift the glass out of the opening using suction cups and set it on a soft support. If the glass is intact, keep it until you have compared it with the new one.
  8. Prepare the opening: leave an even layer of old adhesive about 1-2 mm thick on the body (cut off the rest with a sharp knife). This is the base for the new adhesive. If you see any rust, clean it to bare metal, treat it with rust converter, and prime it. Remove dust and degrease.
  9. Compare the new glass with the old one (shape, holes, brackets, markings). Clean the edges of the new glass with activator, then apply primer to the black ceramic edge of the glass and to the body (where bare metal is exposed) strictly according to the kit instructions, and allow the specified drying time.
  10. Bond on the stops/spacers and locating clips, if provided. Apply a triangular bead of adhesive around the perimeter of the glass (or the body) without gaps, keeping the bead at an even height.
  11. With two people, place the glass into the opening using suction cups, aligning it with the reference points (stops, lower support blocks), and press it gently and evenly around the perimeter. Check that the gap is even on all sides.
  12. Secure the glass against shifting with masking tape, install the moldings, the lower cowl panel, and the sensors, and reconnect the connectors. Reinstall the wiper arms in their original positions and tighten the nuts (torque per the manufacturer's specification; approximately 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft)).
  13. Avoid slamming the doors, pressure washing, and driving on rough roads for the time specified by the adhesive manufacturer (usually 1 to 24 hours before it is safe to drive, with full cure taking up to several days). After the cure time, check for leaks with a gentle stream of water, without pressure.
  14. Check the operation of the wipers, washer, windshield heating, and rain sensor (if equipped).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The windshield is part of the cab structure and affects passive safety and rigidity in a rollover, so an incorrectly chosen adhesive or failing to observe the cure time is dangerous. Use only certified polyurethane windshield adhesive and observe the time before driving. If you have no experience, leave the job to a professional auto glass shop. Wear gloves and glasses: the glass has sharp edges, and cut adhesive is messy. Work times and temperatures are approximate.