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Autopapyrus · Iveco Daily II (1999)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/iveco/daily/diesel-injection-pump-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Iveco Daily II (1999): Diesel Injection Pump Replacement

The engine is not specified in the source. The 1999 Daily II uses 2.5 and 2.8 diesels with a mechanical injection pump, and on some later vehicles the pump may be electronically controlled. The key to the job is preserving the exact timing between the pump and the crankshaft (timing drive marks and the position of the pump gear or pulley) and fully bleeding air from the system after installation. The exact procedure and torque values depend on the specific engine. What follows is the general principle; verify all values in the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours (including timing setup and bleeding the system) Steps: 15

Part

  • 🔩 Complete injection pump (on mechanical 2.5 and 2.8 diesels this is usually a Bosch VE-type rotary pump; the part number depends on the engine and trim, so check it against the data plate on the removed pump). Also: O-rings and copper sealing washers for the fittings, pump flange gasket or seal, fuel filter. A remanufactured (exchange) pump is cheaper than a new one

Tools

10
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Identify the pump type from its data plate: mechanical rotary or electronic. If there is a control unit or solenoid valves at the pump, the job is more difficult. Setting the injection timing requires a special tool and diagnostics. In that case it is better to leave the job to a repair shop.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Clean the pump, the fittings and the surrounding area of dirt: no dust may get into the system.
  3. Remove the protective covers and anything blocking access: the air intake hose, the intercooler hoses if necessary, the timing belt cover.
  4. Set the crankshaft to TDC of cylinder 1 using the marks. Lock it with the pin if one is provided for your engine. Use paint or a marker to make reference marks on the pump gear or pulley, the pump body and the mounting flange. You will need these marks during assembly.
  5. Disconnect the throttle linkage and cable, the engine stop cable or the stop solenoid connector, and the sensor connectors. Note the position of all parts or photograph them.
  6. Loosen and disconnect the high-pressure fuel lines from the pump and the injectors. Immediately cap all open fittings. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines. Fuel will spill, so have a drain pan ready.
  7. Remove the pump drive gear or pulley: loosen the center nut and pull the gear or pulley off with a puller. Do not hit the shaft with a hammer. Do not lose track of the marks on the gear and the belt, because they determine the timing.
  8. Remove the nuts or bolts that secure the pump to the bracket and the housing. They are often in hard-to-reach spots. Remove the pump.
  9. Compare the new pump with the old one: flange, fitting locations, drive type. Transfer levers, brackets and fittings from the old pump to the new one if they are not already installed.
  10. Install the new pump in its seat. Align the marks made in step 4 with the mark on the pump itself. Tighten the pump fasteners with a torque wrench. Take the torque value from the service manual, not by feel. Then install the drive gear or pulley. Tighten the shaft nut to the engine manufacturer's specification.
  11. Check the timing: turn the crankshaft by hand two full revolutions and confirm that the marks line up again. If you have a mechanical pump and the injection timing must be set precisely, this is done using the mark on the flange and the body (the permitted offset is given in the service manual). If you are in doubt, have the check done at a repair shop with a special dial-indicator tool.
  12. Reconnect all lines and the high-pressure tubes using new seals and washers. Tighten the fittings carefully: overtightening damages the threads and causes leaks. Reconnect the linkages, cables and connectors.
  13. Replace the fuel filter. Fill the system with fuel using the manual priming pump (primer bulb) until no air bubbles remain in the clear hose. Rotary pumps usually have a bleed screw on the filter or on the pump: open it until fuel flows without foam.
  14. If the engine does not start, loosen the lines at the injectors and crank the engine in short bursts with the starter until fuel comes out. After it starts, let it idle for 5-10 minutes, check for leaks, then check the timing and the idle speed.
  15. After a test drive, inspect the fittings, lines and pump flange again for seepage. Check for smoke and misfires.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not remove or disassemble the pump without marking the alignment first: lost timing causes hard starting, smoke, rough running and overheating
  • Dirt in the fuel system quickly ruins a new pump, so work cleanly and cap open fittings
  • Diesel fuel under high pressure is dangerous if it contacts skin, so never open the lines while the engine is running
  • If the pump is electronic, adjusting the injection timing and pairing the control unit require diagnostic equipment, and this work is best done at a repair shop