← Daily Iveco Daily repair manuals →
Autopapyrus · Iveco Daily (5th generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/iveco/daily/manual-transmission-disassembly/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Iveco Daily (5th generation): Manual Transmission Disassembly

The Daily V with the 3.0 F1C engine (180 hp) uses a 6-speed manual transmission. The exact procedure and special dimensions for this transmission are not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general disassembly sequence for a transmission of this type. Check torque values and adjustment clearances against the manufacturer's service manual. Disassembly is done with the transmission removed from the vehicle, on a clean workbench, with the parts laid out in order.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-8 hours (after the transmission is removed from the vehicle) Steps: 12

Parts

3
№Part
01 Manual transmission rebuild kit (shaft bearings, synchronizers, snap rings, seals and gaskets)
02 Manual transmission fluid
03 Clutch kitif needed

Tools

13
  • lift or pit
  • transmission jack
  • socket and wrench set
  • spline and Torx bits
  • bearing pullers (two- and three-jaw)
  • drifts
  • snap ring pliers
  • press
  • soft-faced hammer
  • torque wrench
  • dial indicator
  • oil drain pan
  • clean trays and a marker for laying out parts
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Drain the transmission fluid through the drain plug and inspect the plug for metal debris. Fine metal dust on the magnet is acceptable, but large chips indicate failed bearings or gears.
  2. Remove the underbody shield, the driveshaft (mark the relative position of the flanges), the shift linkage or shift cables, the sensor connectors (speed, gear position, reverse), and the clutch release system (remove the slave cylinder without opening the hydraulic line, if possible).
  3. Support the engine, position the transmission jack, and remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine as well as the crossmember with its mount. Pull the transmission straight back along the axis of the input shaft, without letting its weight hang on the input shaft in the clutch disc hub, and lower it.
  4. Thoroughly wash the outside of the transmission and place it on the workbench. Remove the release fork and release bearing, and the clutch housing cover.
  5. Remove the shift mechanism cover and the sensors, then the rear cover or extension housing with the flange. Before removing the output shaft flange nut, lock the shaft and note its position. If the nut is self-locking, replace it with a new one during assembly.
  6. Separate the case along the parting line: remove all the bolts (note the length of each bolt and its location), then carefully pry apart at the designated pry points, taking care not to damage the mating surfaces.
  7. Lift out the shafts as a single assembly (input shaft, output shaft, and the countershaft, if fitted) together with the shift forks and rods. Note the position of the forks and detents. Remove the detent balls and springs carefully, as they are small.
  8. Disassemble the output shaft in order: remove the snap rings, thrust washers, gears, needle bearings, synchronizers and sleeves. Lay out each part in the order of removal, all in the same direction. Do not mix up the gears and synchronizers.
  9. Inspection: check the gear teeth for chipping and wear, the synchronizer cones and blocker rings for wear and scoring, ring clearances, the shaft splines, the bearings for play and noise, the shift forks for wear at the sleeve contact area, and the seals and bearing seats. Replace anything questionable as a set.
  10. Before assembly, clean the parts and lubricate them with transmission fluid, then reassemble in reverse order, fitting new snap rings, seals and gaskets. Use only a sealant approved by the manufacturer on the parting surface, applied in a thin, even layer.
  11. Tighten the cover and case bolts in a crisscross pattern in two or three passes to the manufacturer's specified torque. Before installing the transmission in the vehicle, check that the shafts turn freely and that all gears engage by hand.
  12. Install the transmission in reverse order. Fill with fluid up to the level of the fill hole (type and quantity per the manufacturer's specification), bleed the clutch hydraulics, and check that all gears work while the vehicle is on the lift. Then take a test drive and recheck for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a complex job that requires pullers, a press and experience assembling synchromesh transmissions
  • If you lack that experience, it is better to leave disassembly to a specialized shop
  • The transmission is heavy: use only a transmission jack in good condition and secure the vehicle firmly on stands
  • Never stay under a transmission that is hanging on a jack without a safety backup
  • Before assembly, do not mix parts from different gears, and always replace snap rings, seals and self-locking nuts with new ones
How it works · 3D How a Manual Transmission Works How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →