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Autopapyrus · Kia Cerato (4th generation, BD)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/kia/cerato/wheel-rim-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Cerato (4th generation, BD): Wheel Rim Replacement

The rim is replaced together with a tire transfer: the old tire is removed from the old rim and mounted on the new one, and then the wheel is balanced. At home you can remove and install the wheel, while tire mounting and balancing are done on a machine. The center bore and offset (ET) must match the factory values, otherwise you will get runout and increased suspension wear.

DifficultyEasy Time40-60 minutes per wheelincluding tire transfer and balancing Steps14

Key figures

  • Lug nut tightening torqueset this on the torque wrench in step 12; loose nuts can lead to losing the wheel
    108-127 N·m (80-94 lb-ft) (11-13 kgf·m)
  • Lift heightenough for the wheel to come off freely (step 4)
    about 30 mm off the ground
  • Bolt patternfive holes on a 114.3 mm circle, used to select a new rim (part, step 6)
    5x114.3
  • Rim center boremust match the hub, otherwise you will get runout (step 6)
    67.1 mm
  • Nut threadthe size of the nuts and studs needed when replacing fasteners (step 8)
    M12x1.5
  • Tire pressurethe standard for 16-17 inch tires, checked in step 13
    about 2.3 bar

Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.

Diagram: hub studs and mounting face

Hub with the wheel removed1Studs: wheel goes on them2Mounting face3Center spigot and nut4Brake disc5CaliperTap to enlarge
  1. 1Studs: five threaded rods sticking out of the hub. The wheel goes on them and the nuts screw onto them.
  2. 2Hub mounting face: flat ring around the center. Clean it with a brush from dirt and rust, as well as the wheel mounting face.
  3. 3Center spigot and hub nut: the wheel centers on the spigot, so the wheel center bore must be 67.1 mm.
  4. 4Brake disc with hat: a landmark the hub sits on. The wheel goes in front of it.
  5. 5Brake caliper: a landmark beside the disc, not touched when changing the wheel.

Parts

2
№PartGenuine part no.
01 Wheel rim 6.5Jx16 ET50, center bore 67.1 mm, M12x1.5 fasteners (alloy or steel)for 205/55 R16 tire 52910-A7AA0
52910-A7100
02 Wheel rim 7Jx17 ET53, center bore 67.1 mm, M12x1.5 fasteners (alloy or steel)for 225/45 R17 tire 52910-A7CA0

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

7
  • jack (factory or floor jack)
  • lug wrench or socket for wheel nuts
  • torque wrench
  • wheel chocks
  • wire brush
  • tire mounting machine and wheel balancer (at a tire shop)
  • tire pressure gauge
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Park the car on a level, firm surface, apply the parking brake, and on a manual transmission select reverse; on an automatic, robotized manual, or CVT, put the selector in P. Turn on the hazard lights.
  2. Place chocks under the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed.
  3. Loosen each lug nut one turn counterclockwise while the wheel is still on the ground. Do not remove them completely.
  4. Position the jack at the jacking point on the sill closest to the wheel (the pad with two locating tabs and a protrusion) and raise the car until the wheel is about 30 mm off the ground. Make sure the car is stable. Never get under a car supported only by a jack.
  5. Unscrew the lug nuts by hand and pull the wheel off the studs. Lay it on the floor.
  6. Take the wheel to a tire shop: have the tire removed from the old rim and mounted on the new one, the valve stem replaced, and the pressure sensor replaced if needed. Ask them to balance the wheel. The rim must match the 5x114.3 bolt pattern and the 67.1 mm center bore.
  7. Clean the hub mounting surface and the rim mating surface of dirt and rust with a wire brush. Poor contact loosens the lug nuts, and the wheel can come off.
  8. Inspect the studs and lug nuts. Replace any with damaged threads. Use only lug nuts with a metric M12x1.5 thread and the same seat type (taper) as the factory ones.
  9. Put the wheel onto the studs and line up the holes. If it will not seat, tilt the wheel, engage the top hole on the top stud, and work it onto the remaining studs.
  10. Thread the lug nuts on by hand until snug, wiggle the wheel to make sure it is seated, and hand-tighten the nuts once more.
  11. Lower the car to the ground.
  12. Tighten the nuts in a crisscross (star) pattern, skipping every other nut, until all are snug. Do the final tightening with a torque wrench to 108-127 N·m (80-94 lb-ft) (11-13 kgf·m) and recheck each nut. Do not stand on the wrench or extend it with a pipe.
  13. Check the tire pressure with a gauge, adjust it to the value on the door pillar placard (per the manufacturer, about 2.3 bar for 16-17 inch wheels), and screw the valve cap back on.
  14. If you replaced the pressure sensor, check that the TPMS light on the instrument panel has gone out. Recheck the lug nut torque after 50-100 km of driving.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Wheel mounting affects safety
  • If you have no experience with a jack and a torque wrench, have a shop do the installation
  • Alloy wheels have sharp edges, so wear gloves
  • The center bore is 67.1 mm
  • Do not install rims with a different center bore without hub-centric rings
  • Do not install a rim with visible cracks or signs of weld repair