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Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Kia Sorento Prime 2.4 GDI (2016): Cylinder Head Installation

The 2.4 GDI engine (185 hp) is a gasoline engine with a timing chain drive and direct injection. Installing the cylinder head is precise work that depends on clean surfaces, the correct tightening sequence and stages, and accurate timing mark alignment. The exact step-by-step procedure and torque values for this engine are not documented in open service sources, so the general principle for an aluminum head with torque-to-yield bolts is given below. Always verify torque values against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-10 hours (with the head already removed and the parts prepared) Steps: 13

Parts

6
№PartGenuine part no.Alternatives
01 Cylinder head gasket, 2.4 Theta II GDI (G4KJ) Victor Reinz, Ajusa, Elring
02 Cylinder head bolt set (torque-to-yield, single-use)new 22320-2C400
22321-2C400
03 Engine gasket and seal set (valve cover gasket, spark plug well seals) Victor Reinz, Ajusa, Elring
04 Engine oil
05 Coolant
06 Timing chain, guides and tensionerif needed 24351-2F000 Victor Reinz, Ajusa, Elring
24510-2F000
24376-2F000
24377-2F600

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

11
  • Torque wrench
  • angle gauge (or a paint marker for marking the torque angle)
  • socket and wrench set
  • plastic scraper
  • lint-free cloth
  • surface cleaner
  • thread chaser (tap) for the cylinder head bolt holes
  • straightedge and feeler gauge for checking flatness
  • camshaft and crankshaft locking tools for timing marks
  • compressed air
  • sealant for the locations required by the service manual

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Prepare the cylinder block. Use a scraper (plastic or soft aluminum) to carefully remove any remaining old gasket material from the block surface without scratching the aluminum. Do not let carbon deposits or debris fall into the cylinders or the oil and coolant passages: cover the cylinders with a clean cloth beforehand.
  2. Blow out the cylinder head bolt holes and remove any oil and coolant from them (otherwise hydraulic lock in the hole and incorrect tightening are possible). If necessary, run a thread chaser through the threads.
  3. Check the flatness of the cylinder head with a straightedge and feeler gauge along its length and across the diagonals. For the allowable warpage, see the manufacturer's service manual; if it is exceeded, the head must be resurfaced or replaced. Inspect the valve seats and valve guides, and check the valves for sealing (kerosene test) before installation.
  4. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC) of cylinder 1 using the marks, so that the pistons are in a safe position relative to the valves. The camshafts must not be in a position where the valves are open and could be damaged when the head is seated.
  5. Place the new cylinder head gasket on the block without sealant (unless the service manual requires otherwise), with the "TOP" mark or arrow facing up. Check that the dowel sleeves and all oil and coolant holes line up.
  6. Carefully lower the cylinder head onto the dowel sleeves without shifting the gasket. Check that the head sits level, without tilting.
  7. Lubricate the threads and the underside of the head of the new bolts with a thin layer of engine oil (unless the service manual specifies dry threads). Thread the bolts in by hand until they make contact.
  8. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in a spiral pattern from the center outward, in several stages: first the initial torque, then the final torque, followed by an angle turn to the specified angle (usually in two stages). Use the torque and angle values for the G4KJ strictly as given in the manufacturer's service manual; do not replace the stages with a single tightening.
  9. Install the camshafts and caps according to the marks, and tighten the caps gradually and evenly in the sequence given in the service manual; torque values are per the service manual.
  10. Fit the timing chain according to the marks, then install the guides and the tensioner. Check that all marks on the sprockets and the crankshaft line up. Turn the crankshaft by hand two full revolutions in the normal direction of rotation, then check the marks again. If the marks do not line up or you feel resistance, stop and find the cause.
  11. Install the valve cover with a new gasket, the spark plugs and ignition coils, the high-pressure fuel rail with new seals, and the intake and exhaust manifolds with new gaskets. Tighten to the torque values in the service manual, following the correct sequence.
  12. Reconnect the sensor connectors and wiring harnesses, the coolant hoses, and the crankcase ventilation hoses. Fill with coolant and bleed the air from the system (bleeding per the service manual); change the engine oil and oil filter if necessary.
  13. Start the engine and let it warm up until the thermostat opens. Check for leaks, smooth running and the absence of fault codes. After the mileage interval recommended by the manufacturer, recheck the coolant and oil levels and look again for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The cylinder head bolts on this engine are torque-to-yield, so reusing them is not acceptable; always install new ones
  • An incorrect tightening sequence or torque leads to head distortion, combustion gas leaks and a repeat head gasket failure
  • A direct-injection engine is sensitive to cleanliness and to the correct sealing of the high-pressure fuel rail; if you lack experience, it is better to leave this job to a repair shop