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Autopapyrus · Range Rover Sport 3.0 SDV6 (2016)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/land-rover/range-rover-sport/bleeding-air-from-the-cooling-system-and-heater/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Range Rover Sport 3.0 SDV6 (2016): Bleeding Air from the Cooling System and Heater

An air pocket in the 3.0 SDV6 cooling system usually appears after coolant has been drained or topped up, or after the water pump, thermostat or hoses have been replaced. Symptoms: the heater blows cold or barely warm air with a warmed-up engine, gurgling behind the dash, overheating. The goal is to force the air out, not just top off the coolant.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 12

Parts

2
№Part
01 Ethylene glycol-based OAT coolant (premixed or concentrate)dilute concentrate with distilled water about 50/50
02 Ethylene glycol-based OAT coolant2-3 L (2.1-3.2 qt) spare in case of fluid loss

Tools

6
  • Coolant filling funnel or vacuum coolant fill tool
  • ramps or a lift
  • gloves
  • rags
  • drain pan
  • OBD scan tool if needed
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut off the engine and let it cool down completely. Do not open the reservoir on a hot engine: the system is under pressure and you can be burned.
  2. For best results, raise the front of the vehicle on ramps so that the expansion tank is the highest point of the system. On air suspension, disable automatic height adjustment or use a lift so the suspension does not lower the body while you work.
  3. Check the level in the expansion tank and bring it up to the MAX mark using coolant of the same type. Do not mix different types or colors of coolant.
  4. If you have a vacuum coolant fill tool, use it: pull a vacuum in the system, then fill it with coolant according to the tool's instructions. This is the most reliable way to get rid of an air pocket in the heater.
  5. If filling without a vacuum tool: open the reservoir cap and insert a funnel so the coolant stands above the filler neck and the air has somewhere to escape.
  6. In the cabin, turn the ignition on, set the temperature to maximum (HI), airflow to the footwell or windshield, and the fan to the lowest speed. Do not leave the climate control in AUTO mode: the heater valve must be fully open.
  7. Start the engine and hold it at 1500-2500 rpm for 10-15 minutes, until the engine warms up and the thermostat opens. Watch the level in the reservoir and top it off as it drops. Bubbles in the funnel are normal; that is air coming out.
  8. Squeeze the upper and lower radiator and heater hoses (only on a cold or warm engine, not a hot one, and wear gloves): this pushes air out of the pockets and into the reservoir. Periodically raise the revs to 3000 rpm for 5-10 seconds.
  9. When the upper radiator hose is hot, the fan has switched on, hot air is coming from the heater and the bubbles in the reservoir have stopped, tighten the reservoir cap until it clicks or stops.
  10. Lower the vehicle off the ramps, shut off the engine and let it cool. Then check the level with the engine cold and top off to the mark if necessary.
  11. Take a test drive of 10-15 minutes. If the heater is cold again, repeat the procedure: often after the first pass some air still remains in the heater core and works its way out as you drive.
  12. After 1-2 days, check the level again with the engine cold. If the level keeps dropping, look for a leak: water pump, hoses, radiator, oil cooler heat exchanger, reservoir. A level drop with no visible leaks may point to a cylinder head gasket, EGR cooler or heat exchanger problem, which requires diagnosis at a repair shop.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not open the reservoir on a hot engine: pressurized coolant causes severe burns. Coolant is toxic; do not leave it in an open container and keep it off your skin and away from animals. If the heater still does not warm up after two or three repeats, and the level is dropping or the engine overheats, do not keep driving: overheating on the 3.0 SDV6 can damage the cylinder head, so take it to a repair shop to have the system pressure-tested.