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Mitsubishi Airtrek (Outlander) 2.0 Turbo 4G63T (2003): Alternator Drive Belt Replacement

The alternator belt on the 4G63T is driven by the crankshaft pulley. It determines battery charging and often works together with the water pump or the accessory belts. The exact procedure for this generation of Airtrek is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general principle for the 4G63T. Check the tensioning design on the vehicle visually: it uses either a tensioner pulley or pivots the alternator itself on an adjusting bracket.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours Steps: 12 Tools: Socket and wrench set (typically 10-19 mm), ratchet with extension, pry bar or breaker bar for the tensioner, flashlight, chalk or marker, ruler for checking belt deflection

Part

  • 🔩 Alternator drive belt for the 4G63T engine. Buy the belt by its exact name and match the size of the old belt: type (V-belt or serpentine/ribbed), width and length. If the power steering and A/C belts run on the same pulleys, you may need to remove them first. It is best to replace the whole set at once

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface, shut off the engine and let it cool down. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Inspect the engine bay on the belt side (the passenger side for left-hand-drive cars). Remove any parts in the way: the plastic cover, the intercooler air duct or the air filter hose. On a turbocharged engine they often block access to the alternator.
  3. Take a photo or draw a diagram of the belt routing around the pulleys. This is essential for a serpentine belt.
  4. If the power steering or A/C belts are in the way, loosen and remove them first, after noting their positions. The A/C and power steering belt usually sits in front of the alternator belt.
  5. Determine the tensioning type. If there is an adjusting bracket at the alternator, loosen the pivot (lock) bolt and then loosen the adjusting bolt. If there is a tensioner pulley, push it toward the slack position with a breaker bar.
  6. Remove the old belt from the pulleys. Inspect it for cracks, separation, tears, oil stains and glazed sides. This will show you the cause of the wear.
  7. Check the pulleys: they should be clean, with no rust, deep wear grooves or play. Spin the idler pulley and the alternator bearing by hand; there should be no grinding or binding.
  8. Install the new belt following the diagram from step 3. It must seat in all the grooves without twisting and must be routed onto the crankshaft pulley.
  9. Tension the belt. For a bracket with a bolt, carefully pry the alternator away by its housing with a pry bar, without levering against thin parts. For a tensioner pulley, simply release the tensioner. Then tighten the lock bolt.
  10. Check the tension: belt deflection on the longest span should be about 8-12 mm when pressed with a force of roughly 10 kg (22 lb). This is a guideline; verify exact figures against the manufacturer's specifications. The belt should be neither slack nor guitar-string tight.
  11. Reinstall the belts, air ducts and shields you removed. Reconnect the battery.
  12. Start the engine and listen to the belt at idle and when revving slightly. Make sure the belt does not squeal or make noise and that the charging light goes out. Recheck the tension after 100-200 km (60-125 miles), because a new belt stretches slightly.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not work near rotating pulleys while wearing loose clothing, and do not turn the ignition on while your hands are near the belt. Do not over-tighten the belt: excessive tension quickly destroys the alternator and water pump bearings. If the belt slips off or wears quickly on one side, look for pulley or idler misalignment or wear. Replacing the belt alone will not fix that.