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Trunk Lid Assembly Replacement (Mitsubishi Lancer X, Sedan)

The Lancer X sedan trunk lid is mounted on two hinges with torsion springs and is bolted to the body. This job takes two people: the lid is heavy and easily damages the paint. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so the steps below follow the general principle, and torque is given as a range.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours Steps: 14

Parts

5
№PartGenuine part no.
01 Trunk lid assembly, Lancer X sedan (CY)correct paint color 5920A092
5920A061
5920A062
02 Trunk opening weatherstripif needed
03 Trunk lockif needed 5927A014
5927A012
04 Trunk lid emblemif needed 7415A112
05 License plate trim panelif needed

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

7
  • Socket set and ratchet (10 mm, 12 mm)
  • flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
  • plastic trim removal tools
  • masking tape
  • marker
  • helper
  • soft padding
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Open the trunk lid fully. Disconnect the negative battery terminal if the lid being removed has electrical components (license plate lights, release button, rearview camera, central locking).
  2. Carefully pry the inner trim panel of the lid away with trim removal tools. Remove the plastic plugs and the license plate trim panel if it blocks access to the wiring.
  3. Disconnect the wiring connectors for the license plate lights and any other electrical components. Tie a cord or wire to the harness so you can easily pull the new harness through the rubber grommet into the lid when the old lid is off.
  4. Remove the parts that need to be transferred to the new lid: lock or lock cylinder, release button, emblem, license plate lights, rear camera, spoiler (if equipped). Keep the fasteners separate.
  5. Outline the hinges on the lid with masking tape and mark them with a marker. This preserves the panel gaps during installation.
  6. Have your helper hold the lid. Cover the lower edges of the opening and the rear fender with a soft cloth or tape so the paint doesn't get scratched.
  7. Remove the bolts that secure the hinges to the lid (usually 2 per hinge). With your helper, lift the lid off and set it aside on a soft surface. The torsion springs stay on the body. Do not disassemble them: they are under tension.
  8. Compare the new lid with the old one: lock and hinge brackets, holes, shape. Transfer the removed parts and pull the wiring harness through.
  9. Set the new lid on the hinges, aligning them with your marks, and thread the bolts in by hand without tightening them. Close the lid and check the gaps around the opening. They should be even, and the lid surface should be flush with the fenders and the rear bumper.
  10. Adjustment: with the bolts loosened, slide the lid within the slotted holes of the hinges. Adjust the height at the lock by turning the rubber stops and by repositioning the lock striker.
  11. Tighten the hinge bolts. The torque is approximately 8-14 N·m (6-10 lb-ft) (check the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual). Tighten evenly, without misalignment.
  12. Reconnect the wiring connectors and make sure the license plate lights and the lock release work. Reconnect the battery.
  13. Reinstall the inner trim panel and plugs. Check that the lid opens with both the button and the key, that it moves smoothly, and that the lock latches securely.
  14. If the lid was not painted at the factory and chips remain, treat any bare metal with primer and paint to prevent corrosion.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not remove or stretch the hinge torsion springs without a special tool: they can snap loose and cause injury
  • Remove and install the lid only with a helper
  • When ordering a new body-color lid, match the paint code (on the plate in the trunk or on the door pillar), or the lid will need to be painted