Mitsubishi Pajero IV (Montero) 3.0 V6 6G72 (2011): Intake Manifold Removal and Installation

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

• Socket set and ratchet with extensions
• 10
• 12
• 14 mm sockets
• screwdrivers
• hose clamp pliers
• torque wrench
• marker and bags for connectors
• plastic scraper
• throttle body and carburetor cleaner
• flange sealant (if needed)
• coolant drain pan

1. Let the engine cool completely. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the plastic engine cover.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, start the engine and let it stall, then crank it with the starter for 2-3 seconds. Place rags under the fuel connections.
3. Drain some of the coolant (roughly 2-3 L (2.1-3.2 qt)) from the radiator: the throttle body and manifold are connected to the heater circuit by hoses for throttle body heating.
4. Remove the air duct between the air filter and the throttle body, and disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose and the connector of the mass airflow and intake air temperature sensor.
5. Disconnect the connectors of the throttle position sensor, the idle air control valve (or electronic throttle actuator), the manifold absolute pressure sensor and any other sensors on the manifold. Label each connector with a marker and remove the vacuum hoses, taking photos of their routing.
6. Disconnect the accelerator cable (and the cruise control cable, if equipped), then the throttle body heater hoses. Clamp them to keep coolant spillage to a minimum.
7. Remove the wiring harness brackets and wiring retainers from the upper part of the manifold and move the harness aside.
8. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose, as well as the EGR valve or charcoal canister hoses (if present), from the manifold.
9. Remove the upper manifold fasteners in a crisscross pattern from the edges toward the center, in two or three stages. Remove the upper section and immediately cover the intake ports with clean lint-free rags or plugs so that no fasteners or dirt fall into the cylinders.
10. If you need to remove the lower section: detach the fuel rail (with injectors) from the manifold, disconnect the fuel lines and injector connectors, and remove the coolant temperature sensor and hose retainers. Remove the lower section bolts and carefully lift it off. The gaskets may be stuck, so separate them without using a chisel.
11. Clean the mating surfaces of old gasket material with a plastic scraper and wipe them with a degreased cloth. Check flatness, cracks, the condition of the hoses and the threaded holes.
12. Install new gaskets (on a thin layer of sealant if the manufacturer recommends it). Tighten the lower section in a crisscross pattern from the center to the edges in two or three passes, approximately 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft). Tighten the upper section the same way, in several passes, approximately 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft) (exact values are in the manufacturer's specifications).
13. Install the fuel rail with new injector O-rings (lubricated with clean engine oil), secure it, and connect the fuel lines and connectors. Tighten the rail fasteners to the specified torque (usually within 10-20 N·m (7-15 lb-ft)).
14. Reconnect the vacuum hoses, connectors, cable, coolant hoses and air duct using the marks and photos you made earlier. Check that the hose clamps are tight.
15. Top off the coolant to the proper level, reconnect the battery, and turn the ignition on for 2-3 seconds several times to build fuel pressure. Check for fuel and coolant leaks.
16. Start the engine, warm it up to operating temperature, bleed the air from the cooling system, and check for vacuum leaks (fluctuating idle speed, trouble codes) and leaks. After the engine cools, check the coolant level and top it off if necessary. Clear the codes with a scan tool and perform a throttle body relearn if necessary.

• Working on the fuel system carries a fire risk: eliminate sparks and open flames and keep a fire extinguisher nearby
• Any foreign object that falls into the intake ports will cause severe engine damage, so always cover the ports
• A vacuum leak caused by an incorrectly seated gasket will result in rough running and trouble codes
• If you have no experience working on fuel systems, leave this job to a repair shop