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Autopapyrus · Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 2.5 DI-D 4D56 178 hp (2012)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mitsubishi/pajero-sport/exhaust-manifold-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mitsubishi Pajero Sport 2.5 DI-D 4D56 178 hp (2012): Exhaust Manifold Replacement

On the 4D56 DI-D, the manifold sits under the turbocharger and is tightly packed between the cylinder head, the EGR and the firewall. It is most often replaced because of a crack (hissing and popping from the exhaust, exhaust smell, exhaust leaks) or broken studs. Most of the time goes into removing the turbocharger and loosening the seized nuts.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 5-8 hours (longer if the studs and nuts are seized) Steps: 15 Tools: Socket and wrench set 10-19 mm, extensions and universal joints, ratchet, torque wrench, penetrating oil (WD-type), copper anti-seize paste (high-temp), stud extractor or two jam nuts, pliers, coolant drain pan, gasket scraper, jack or lift with stands, marker and bags for labeling connectors

Part

  • 🔩 Exhaust manifold (cast iron) for 4D56 DI-D, exhaust manifold gasket set, gasket (flange) between the manifold and turbocharger, EGR pipe or flange gasket, downpipe gaskets, new self-locking nuts and studs for the manifold and turbocharger. Exact part numbers depend on the engine version, so order by part name and VIN through your parts supplier
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Preparation. Work on a completely cold engine. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Spray penetrating oil on the manifold nuts, the turbocharger nuts and bolts, the downpipe flange and the EGR mounts several hours ahead or the night before. This greatly reduces the risk of snapping studs.
  2. Raise the vehicle and remove the engine skid plate. Drain the coolant to a level below the turbocharger if you plan to disconnect its coolant lines. On the 4D56 the turbocharger is usually cooled through a feed and return line from the cooling system, so draining is useful.
  3. Remove the plastic engine cover, the air filter with its housing and the air duct to the turbocharger. Remove the intercooler pipes and the pipe to the intake manifold to open up access. Plug the open ports with clean rags or plugs so debris does not get into the turbocharger or intake.
  4. Disconnect the sensors and connectors that are in the way: the exhaust pressure or temperature sensor (if fitted), the connector for the turbocharger geometry actuator or regulator, the oxygen sensor, and the sensors on the downpipe. Label the connectors and the vacuum hoses with a marker.
  5. Disconnect the downpipe from the turbocharger: remove the flange nuts or bolts from below. Support the exhaust system with wire or a stand, and do not leave it hanging on the flex section if there is one.
  6. Remove the turbocharger oil feed and return lines (they unscrew by their fittings; replace the gaskets on the oil connections) and the turbocharger coolant lines. Place a pan underneath, as the remaining oil and coolant will drain out.
  7. Disconnect the EGR pipe or valve from the manifold and the intake, as well as the heat shields on the manifold and turbocharger. Keep the shield bolts. They are usually heavily carbon-coated, and it is easier to heat and remove them once you have full access.
  8. Remove the turbocharger together with the manifold, or separately: on this engine it is more practical to unbolt the turbocharger from the manifold first, then remove the manifold from the cylinder head. If access allows, you can remove the manifold and turbocharger as one assembly, but it is heavy and awkward. Cover the turbocharger oil and air ports after removal.
  9. Loosen the nuts securing the manifold to the cylinder head evenly, working from the ends toward the center, with a small amount of force per pass. If a stud turns or pulls out along with the nut, stop: heat it with a heat gun or torch (carefully, away from plastic and wiring), add more penetrating oil and try again. Do not apply sudden, heavy force.
  10. Remove the manifold and the old gaskets. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and turbocharger flange surfaces with a scraper, without leaving cross-wise scratches. Inspect the studs: clean the threads, and replace any that are bent, corroded or seized. Remove broken studs with an extractor, or have a repair shop do it if necessary.
  11. Compare the new manifold with the old one: the number and position of the ports, the EGR mounting surface, and the sensor locations. Check flatness with a straightedge and feeler gauge; warping is not acceptable. Apply copper anti-seize paste to the threads so they can be removed easily later.
  12. Install the new gaskets and place the manifold onto the studs. Tighten with a torque wrench, evenly from the center outward, in 2-3 passes. The approximate torque for the manifold and turbocharger nuts on the 4D56 is about 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft) (fasteners of different diameters require different torque), so check the exact value for your engine against the manufacturer's specifications.
  13. Install the turbocharger with a new gasket, then the oil feed and return lines with new gaskets. Before starting, pour 20-30 ml of clean engine oil into the turbocharger through the oil feed port and crank the engine with the starter without starting it (disabling fuel delivery, for example by disconnecting the injector connector or the fuel valve connector, is sufficient; disconnecting the fuel rail or a fuel pump fuse is not needed) until the oil pressure light goes out. This protects the turbocharger bearings from oil starvation.
  14. Reconnect the turbocharger cooling, the EGR with a new gasket, the heat shields, the downpipe with new gaskets and nuts, the sensors and connectors, the air ducts and the air filter. Top up the coolant and bleed the air from the system.
  15. Start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes. Check all joints for hissing, exhaust leaks, and oil and coolant seepage (using a work light and by listening). After 100-200 km (60-125 miles), retighten the connections if the gaskets allow it, and check the coolant and oil levels.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The main risk is snapping seized studs in the cylinder head. If the studs will not come out, stop and do not put the head at risk: attempting to remove a broken stud without experience often ends with a trip to a repair shop. Do not work on a hot engine. A cracked manifold often leaves hoses and wiring sooty, so inspect them and replace any that are damaged. Always replace all gaskets and self-locking nuts; reusing them leads to leaks and premature turbocharger failure.