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Autopapyrus · Nissan Almera 1.6 QG16 (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/almera/engine-gasket-and-seal-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Almera 1.6 QG16 (2007): Engine Gasket and Seal Replacement

Oil leaks on the QG16 most often come from under the valve cover, from under the oil pan, or from the crankshaft and camshaft seals. "Engine seals" is a general term, so first find exactly where the leak is coming from and replace only what is needed. Below is the procedure for the valve cover gasket and the oil pan. Seals and the timing belt are covered at the end.

DifficultyMedium Time2-4 hoursvalve cover and oil pan); the transmission-side crankshaft seal is a separate, difficult job Steps12

Key figures

  • Engine oil capacity
    2.7 L (2.9 qt) without a filter change, 3.1 L (3.3 qt) with a filter change. This is how much to add after the job (step 10)
  • Oil pan assembly time on sealant
    no more than 5 minutes after application, otherwise the sealant starts to set and the joint will leak (step 9)
  • Wait before adding oil
    at least 30 minutes, until the sealant sets (step 10)
  • Oil pump cover
    5.9-7.8 N·m (52-69 lb-in). If you disassembled the pump, tighten with a torque wrench (step 8)
  • Oil pickup screen
    6.3-8.3 N·m (56-73 lb-in). The fasteners are tightened with the same wrench (step 8)

Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.

Diagram: where the valve cover is and what to remove first

This is the valve cover seen from above and the frontremove the coils firstCover removed, view from inside1Ignition coils2Valve cover3Cover bolts7Oil dipstick6Manifold heat shield4Gasket in the groove5Well sealsTap to enlarge
  1. 1Ignition coils: sit in the spark plug wells in the middle of the cover. Unplug and remove them before the cover.
  2. 2Valve cover: undo the bolts from the edges to the centre and lift it off. If stuck, pry gently at the lugs.
  3. 3Cover bolts: along the edge and by the wells. Undo from edges to centre, tighten from centre to edges, without force.
  4. 4Valve cover gasket: sits in the groove around the edge. Clean the groove, fit a new one, apply a thin layer of sealant in the corners at the camshaft ends.
  5. 5Spark plug well seals: rings in the cover wells. Replace them with new ones.
  6. 6Exhaust manifold heat shield: a landmark under the cover.
  7. 7Oil dipstick: a landmark; use it to check the oil level after the job.

Parts

9
№PartGenuine part no.Alternatives
01 QG16 engine gasket set 10101-95F0B AlternativesVictor ReinzElringNissan
10101-95F0C
02 Valve cover gasket with spark plug well seals 13270-95F0B AlternativesVictor ReinzElringNissan
13270-95F0C
13276-95F0A
03 Oil pan gasket or oil pan sealantif needed
04 Front crankshaft seal 13510-95F0A
05 Rear crankshaft seal
06 Camshaft seals 08120-6402E
08120-62028
07 Engine oil
08 Oil filter 15208-95F0A
09 Liquid sealant for engine mating surfaces

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

7
  • Socket set and ratchet
  • torque wrench
  • scraper for old sealant (plastic or soft metal)
  • seal puller or thin screwdriver
  • seal driver
  • degreaser
  • containers for oil and coolant
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 3 more. See manuals →

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Find the source of the leak. Wash the engine from below and above, drive 50-100 km and inspect it. Oil on top of the block points to the valve cover or the spark plug wells. Oil on the oil pan points to the oil pan gasket or a seal. Oil on the transmission bell housing points to the rear crankshaft seal. Oil near the pulley points to the front seal.
  2. Stop the engine and let it cool down. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  3. For the valve cover, remove the decorative cover, the ignition coil connectors and spark plug wires or coils, the crankcase ventilation hoses, and anything else that prevents removing the cover. Remember where everything was installed.
  4. Loosen the valve cover bolts evenly, working from the edges to the center. Remove the cover. If it is stuck, carefully pry it at the casting bosses without gouging the mating surface.
  5. Clean the cylinder head and cover surfaces of old sealant and oil, then degrease them. Make sure no debris gets into the engine. Replace the spark plug well seals. Install the new gasket in the cover groove. At the joints specified in the manufacturer's instructions (usually the corners near the ends of the camshafts), apply a thin layer of liquid sealant.
  6. Install the cover and tighten the bolts from the center to the edges in two passes. The torque is low, per the manufacturer's specification (the cover bolts are aluminum or have rubber washers and are easy to strip). Do not overtighten.
  7. For the oil pan, drain the oil. Engine oil capacity is 2.7 L (2.9 qt) without an oil filter change and 3.1 L (3.3 qt) with a filter change. Remove the engine under-cover. If necessary, make room by removing the stabilizer parts and the front exhaust pipe if they block the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolts around the perimeter and separate the pan. To separate the sealed surfaces, use a special sealant cutter or a plastic wedge, not a chisel.
  8. Remove the old sealant with a scraper, clean the surfaces and degrease them. Check the oil pickup screen and clean it. The oil pickup tube and oil pump cover fasteners are tightened to low torques: for reference, oil pickup tube 6.3-8.3 N·m (56-73 lb-in), oil pump cover 5.9-7.8 N·m (52-69 lb-in) (if they were disassembled).
  9. Apply liquid sealant in an even bead around the oil pan perimeter and around each bolt hole. Assemble the oil pan within 5 minutes of applying the sealant. Tighten the bolts from the center to the edges in 2-3 passes, with torques per the manufacturer's specification.
  10. Wait at least 30 minutes before adding oil and coolant so the sealant can set. Install a new oil filter, add oil of the correct viscosity and specification, and check the level on the dipstick.
  11. Start the engine, let it idle, and check the replaced areas for leaks. Oil pressure at idle on a warm engine (about 80 °C) should be above 0.07 MPa. Check the oil level after the engine cools down and top up if necessary.
  12. The front crankshaft seal and the camshaft seals are replaced with the timing belt or chain and the pulley removed. The rear crankshaft seal is replaced with the transmission and flywheel removed (clutch or torque converter). Press the new seal in evenly, without tilting, using a seal driver, onto a clean seating surface; lightly lubricate the working lip with engine oil. If you have never removed a transmission or a timing belt before, leave this work to a repair shop.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not apply too much sealant: the excess will get into the oil pan and can clog the oil pickup screen
  • Do not start the engine until the sealant's setting time has passed
  • If the leak is from the transmission-side crankshaft seal, keep in mind that the job is labor-intensive: the transmission has to be removed
  • Tightening torques for the valve cover, oil pan and seals are not given exactly above, so check their values against the manufacturer's specification