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Autopapyrus · Nissan Almera (Sunny/Pulsar N16) 1.6 GA16DE (2000)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/almera/manual-transmission-removal-and-installation-n15-2000-2/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Almera (Sunny/Pulsar N16) 1.6 GA16DE (2000): Manual Transmission Removal and Installation

On the Almera, the transmission is removed downward and rearward, with the engine held by a support bar. First, disconnect everything attached to it: wiring, the shift linkage, the clutch slave cylinder, and the drive axles. This procedure is written for a manual transmission. If your car has an automatic, the order is the same, but you must also disconnect the transmission cooler lines, the selector cable, and the torque converter bolts.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 5-8 hours (including clutch replacement and axle seal replacement) Steps: 20

Parts

4
  • 🔩 75W-90 GL-4 transmission oil about 2.5-3 L (2.6-3.2 qt)
  • 🔩 Transmission axle seals left and right
  • 🔩 Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) if wear is close to the limit
  • 🔩 Input shaft spline grease

Tools

9
  • Inspection pit or vehicle lift
  • transmission jack
  • engine support bar or crossmember
  • socket and wrench set
  • Torx and spline (triple square) sockets
  • pry bar
  • oil drain pan
  • axle seal plugs
  • torque wrench
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 3 more. See manuals →

Step by step

20 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the parking brake, and loosen the front wheel nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and secure it firmly on stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, then remove the battery and its tray. They are next to the transmission and block access.
  3. Remove the air filter assembly together with the intake duct to make room above the transmission.
  4. Remove the front wheels and the engine undercover (if equipped). Drain the transmission oil and reinstall the drain plug. Drain plug tightening torque on installation: approximately 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft) (check the exact value in the manufacturer's specifications).
  5. Disconnect the connectors of the speed sensor, the reverse light switch, and any other sensors on the transmission housing. Mark them or take photos so you can reconnect everything correctly.
  6. Disconnect the shift linkage (rods or cables) from the levers on the transmission. Note the position of the adjusting nuts and retainers.
  7. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing and move it aside together with its hose. Do not disconnect the hydraulic line, so you do not have to bleed the system again.
  8. Remove the starter, or at least remove the mounting bolts that pass through the bellhousing, and move the starter aside.
  9. Disconnect the drive axles from the transmission. Remove the nuts of the lower ball joints or disconnect the tie rod ends and links, swing the hubs outward, and carefully pull the inner joints out of the transmission by prying with a pry bar. Do not pull the axles out by the joint housing at a sharp angle. Hang the axles on wire and close the transmission openings with plugs.
  10. If the exhaust downpipe is in the way, disconnect it from the exhaust manifold and remove its mounts.
  11. Install the engine support bar or crossmember on top. Position a jack with a wide pad under the transmission and raise it slightly.
  12. Remove the left engine mount (bushing) and the bracket that secures the transmission to the body. Release all mounts holding the transmission to the subframe.
  13. Remove the bolts securing the transmission housing to the engine. Note the locations of bolts of different lengths. Leave one or two upper bolts in place until the very end.
  14. While supporting the transmission with the jack, remove the last bolts. Move the transmission rearward along the axis of the input shaft until it clears the clutch disc, then lower it and roll it out. Do not let the weight of the transmission hang on the input shaft.
  15. While the transmission is out, inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel. It is best to replace the release bearing, disc, and pressure plate as a set. Replace the axle seals in the transmission. Apply a thin layer of grease to the input shaft splines, but do not get any grease on the friction surface of the disc.
  16. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to center the clutch disc with an alignment tool before installing the transmission. Mate the transmission to the engine without force: if it will not seat, check the spline alignment (rotate the shaft slightly), but do not pull it together with the bolts. Tighten the transmission housing bolts according to their size; the approximate range is 40-80 N·m (30-59 lb-ft) (check the exact values in the manufacturer's specifications).
  17. Install the engine mount and brackets and tighten them to specification. Reinstall the drive axles, ball joints, and tie rod ends, tightening them with a torque wrench. Use new cotter pins or self-locking nuts wherever they were originally used.
  18. Reconnect the connectors, the shift linkage, the clutch slave cylinder, and the starter, then install the battery and air filter. Fill with 75W-90 GL-4 oil to the lower edge of the fill hole.
  19. Install the wheels and, after lowering the vehicle to the ground, tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern to 100-110 N·m (74-81 lb-ft).
  20. Check clutch operation with the engine running: full pedal travel and smooth engagement of all gears and reverse. If necessary, adjust the shift linkage and bleed the clutch hydraulics. Take a test drive and check that there are no oil leaks from the axle seals.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The transmission weighs several dozen kilograms, and with the mount removed, the engine is held only by the support bar
  • Work with reliable safety support and do not stand under a suspended component
  • If you do not have experience with this type of work, or if the brake system or steering components need adjustment after reassembly, have the work done by a repair shop