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Autopapyrus · Nissan Laurel (C35)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/laurel/power-steering-rack-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Laurel (C35): Power Steering Rack Replacement

On the C35 with the RB20DE engine, the rack is removed together with disconnecting the steering column joint, the tie rod ends and the two power steering lines. A detailed step-by-step procedure for this specific model is not documented in publicly available sources, so below is the general principle for a power steering rack. The sequence may differ slightly: on a number of cars in this class, you have to lower or move aside the subframe and the splash shield before the rack can be removed. Be sure to check and adjust the suspension and steering after the work.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 4-6 hours (plus bleeding and wheel alignment) Steps: 12

Parts

6
№Part
01 Power steering rack assembly (Nissan Laurel C35)new or remanufactured, LHD or RHD
02 Power steering fluid (ATF Dexron)
03 Sealing washers or O-rings for high-pressure lines
04 Cotter pins or self-locking nuts for tie rod endsnew
05 Tie rod endsif needed
06 Bootsif needed

Tools

10
  • Lift or pit with body supports
  • jack
  • 10-22 mm wrenches and sockets
  • power steering line wrench (flare-nut)
  • tie rod end puller (ball joint separator)
  • torque wrench
  • fluid drain pan
  • plugs or caps for hoses
  • steering wheel lock
  • marker

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the car on a level surface with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Lock the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position and remove the key so the airbag clock spring does not rotate. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 10-15 minutes.
  2. Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the car, set it on stands, and remove the front wheels. Remove the lower engine splash shield, if fitted.
  3. Use a marker to make alignment marks: the position of the steering column joint on the rack shaft and the position of the tie rod end locknuts (or measure the thread length up to the nut). This keeps the alignment close to the original so you can drive to the shop.
  4. Remove the pinch bolt of the steering column universal joint on the rack shaft and slide the joint off the shaft. Do not turn the steering wheel while the joint is disconnected.
  5. Remove the cotter pins and unscrew the tie rod end nuts, then press the ends out of the steering knuckles with a puller. Do not hit the stud with a hammer, to avoid damaging the boot.
  6. Place a drain pan underneath and disconnect the power steering lines (pressure and return) from the rack with a flare-nut wrench. Drain the fluid and plug the lines and fittings to keep dirt out.
  7. If necessary, move aside or lower the components that block removal: the crossmember, the sway bar, the heat shield, the exhaust brackets. What exactly is in the way is obvious once you are under the car. Support any component you lower with a jack.
  8. While holding the rack, remove the bolts that secure the rack brackets and mounts to the body or subframe. Move the rack out to the side carefully so you do not damage the boots and lines.
  9. If the tie rod ends are not being replaced, transfer them with their locknuts to the new rack, counting the turns. Check that the boots are intact and that the rack is centered (the number of turns from lock to lock is equal in both directions).
  10. Install the rack in the reverse order, using new seals on the lines. Torque: rack mounting bolts to the body, subframe or brackets 50-80 N·m (37-59 lb-ft) (the exact value depends on the bolt); steering column joint pinch bolt 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft); tie rod end nuts 50-75 N·m (37-55 lb-ft), then fit a cotter pin; power steering line connections 20-40 N·m (15-30 lb-ft) depending on the fitting size, do not overtighten; wheel nuts 98-118 N·m (72-87 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern.
  11. Fill the power steering reservoir to the mark. With the front wheels raised and the engine off, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock 10-15 times to push out air, topping off the fluid as needed. Then start the engine and turn the wheel in both directions again until the bubbles disappear. Check the fluid level and the connections for leaks.
  12. Lower the car, set the steering wheel straight, and drive at low speed: the steering wheel should be level, with no pump noise and no leaks. Be sure to have a wheel alignment done before normal driving.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Steering is a safety system
  • If you have no experience with suspension and power steering, leave the installation and adjustment to a repair shop
  • Do not drive the car with improperly tightened tie rod ends or a loose steering column joint pinch bolt
  • Before reassembly, make sure the airbag and the clock spring have not been rotated
  • Always use only the correct rack for your car (left-hand and right-hand drive versions differ)
  • Torque values are given as ranges, so check the exact values for individual bolts in the service data for your trim level