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Autopapyrus · Nissan Leaf (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/nissan/leaf/front-brake-pad-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Nissan Leaf (1st generation): Front Brake Pad Replacement

On the first-generation Nissan Leaf, the front brake pads wear more slowly than on a typical gasoline car because of regenerative braking. The recommended replacement interval is every 50,000-60,000 km or when the remaining friction material is less than 2 mm thick. The job requires no special equipment. It is also simplified because the electronic parking brake acts on the rear drum brakes, not on the front discs.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-40 minutes per axle Steps: 17 Tools: jack and jack stands, lug wrench, 14 mm and 17 mm sockets, ratchet, C-clamp or piston compressor tool, wire brush, WD-40, copper grease

Part

  • 🔩 Genuine Nissan front brake pads D1060-3LM0A, D1060-3TA0A or D1M60-CY70B (interchangeable). Aftermarket alternatives: Brembo, Akebono, TRW

Step by step

17 steps
  1. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel, but do not remove the wheel yet.
  2. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and place a jack stand under the rocker panel (pinch weld).
  3. Fully remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.
  4. Clean the caliper hardware with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt, then treat it with WD-40.
  5. Remove the lower caliper guide bolt with a 17 mm socket (leave the upper bolt in place).
  6. Swing the caliper upward, pivoting on the upper bolt like a hinge, and secure it to the suspension spring with wire. Do not let it hang from the brake hose.
  7. Remove the old pads from the caliper bracket together with the anti-squeal springs (clips).
  8. Push the caliper piston back in with a C-clamp. This is necessary to fit the new, thicker pads. Watch the brake fluid in the reservoir so it does not overflow.
  9. Clean the caliper bracket of old grease and corrosion, then apply a thin layer of high-temperature copper grease to the pad seating surfaces and the guide pins.
  10. Install the new pads in the bracket together with the anti-squeal shims. Pay close attention to orientation: the wear indicator must be at the top of the inner pad.
  11. Lower the caliper back into position and make sure the pads are seated in the bracket slots.
  12. Tighten the lower caliper guide bolt to 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft). See the manufacturer's service manual for the exact value.
  13. Install the wheel and thread the lug nuts on by hand.
  14. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to 108 N·m (80 lb-ft).
  15. Repeat the procedure for the other front wheel.
  16. Pump the brake pedal firmly several times so the caliper pistons press the new pads against the rotors. The pedal should become firm.
  17. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top it up to the MAX mark if needed (use only DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid).

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not use compressed air to clean brake components. Dust from old pads can be hazardous to your lungs, as older pads may contain asbestos. Wipe parts with a damp cloth instead. For the first 200-300 km after replacing the pads, avoid hard braking, because new pads need to bed in to the rotors. If the pedal sinks to the floor or the brakes do not hold after the job, take the car to a repair shop immediately. There may be a brake fluid leak or air in the system.
How it works · 3D How Car Brakes Work How the part you're working on actually works — in plain English, on a 3D model. Open in 3D →