Autopapyrus · Mazda 6 (GJ, 2016) 2.0 SKYACTIV-G
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mazda/6/front-brake-pad-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Mazda 6 (GJ, 2016) 2.0 SKYACTIV-G: Front Brake Pad Replacement

The third-generation Mazda 6 (GJ, 2012-2018) has ventilated front discs with floating calipers. Replace the pads every 40,000-60,000 km depending on driving style. This is a standard disc brake job that needs a jack and basic hand tools.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 18 Tools: floor jack, jack stands, 17 mm wrench (caliper bolts), 17 mm socket wrench (wheel bolts), pry bar, container for brake fluid

Part

🔩 front brake pads (OE Mazda for GJ: confirm by VIN or body code with your supplier; many aftermarket pads from Brembo, ATE and TRW are compatible)

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 4 more. See manuals →

Step by step

18 steps

Park the car on level ground and set the parking brake. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood, on the left). You will need this later when you push the caliper piston back.
Loosen the front left wheel bolts (with the wheel on the ground, before lifting).
Lift the car with the jack at the reinforced frame rail area and place two jack stands under it.
Fully remove the four wheel bolts (17 mm) and take off the wheel.
You will see the caliper (aluminum or gray cast iron body) with two 17 mm mounting bolts, one upper and one lower.
Remove both caliper bolts (they usually aren't rusted in place, but may be a bit tight). Hang the caliper with a wire from the suspension spring or another suspension component. DO NOT LET IT HANG ON THE BRAKE HOSE.
Remove the two old pads (inner and outer). The outer pad often sticks to the disc. Rock it and help it loose with a pry bar, but don't use too much force, to avoid damaging the disc.
Inspect the disc: thickness must be at least 3.8 mm (minimum allowed). If it is thinner, or has deep grooves or corrosion, the disc must be replaced (check the thickness with a specialist).
Clean the caliper guides (the two cylindrical slide pins) of dirt and rust with a brush or sandpaper.
Push back the caliper piston (it sits behind the pads inside the caliper). Use an old pad as a backing plate and a pry bar to slowly press the piston in. Fluid will flow back from the caliper into the reservoir, which is normal. If the fluid level in the reservoir is high, loosen the cap slightly and let 1-2 cm of fluid out before pushing the piston back.
Install the new pads: the inner pad (with the built-in wear sensor, if equipped) goes in the caliper, and the outer pad goes on the caliper bracket. Make sure the retaining clips (tabs) are seated firmly.
Reinstall the caliper and tighten the 17 mm mounting bolts. Tightening torque: 16-24 N·m (12-18 lb-ft). Snug is usually enough, but don't over-tighten.
Install the wheel and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 85-95 N·m (63-70 lb-ft), first by hand and then with the wrench.
Lower the car to the ground and do the final tightening of the wheel bolts.
Repeat steps 2-14 for the front right wheel.
After both sides are done, press the brake pedal several times (5-7) with the car parked until the pedal feels firm. The caliper pistons must settle into their working position.
Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. It should be between MIN and MAX.
Take a test drive (20-30 km) at low and medium speeds. Make sure the brakes work correctly, with no squealing or pulsation.

Common mistakes and warnings

The brake system is a safety-critical system. If you have no experience with this kind of work, have a repair shop do the replacement. After replacing the pads, within 200

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