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Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo/front-brake-pad-and-rotor-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11): Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement

On the Tiggo T11, the front brake is a single-piston floating caliper with a vented rotor. The rotor comes off after the caliper and the bracket are removed. The exact tightening torque for the caliper hardware is not confirmed in publicly available sources, so ranges are given below.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2.5 hours Steps: 18 Tools: jack and jack stands, lug wrench, socket and wrench set (usually 12-17 mm for the caliper guide pin bolts and 17-19 mm for the caliper bracket), Torx or hex bit sockets (if the rotor or caliper hardware is that type), pry bar or C-clamp for compressing the piston, wire for hanging the caliper, wire brush, brake cleaner, copper or ceramic grease for the guide pins and pad backing plates, torque wrench

Part

  • 🔩 front brake pad set (per axle) and two front brake rotors (vented). Replace pads and rotors as a set on both sides of the axle. Check rotor diameter and thickness against the old rotor or the dimensions marked on it. Several variants exist for the Tiggo T11, and I am not giving exact figures for your trim level

Step by step

18 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug nuts a half turn.
  2. Jack up the front of the car, place it on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Never work with the car supported only by a jack.
  3. Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Pushing the piston back will raise the level, so draw off any excess fluid with a syringe if needed. Keep brake fluid off the paint.
  4. Inspect the caliper hose, dust boots, and guide pins. Check the hose for cracks and look for fluid leaks.
  5. Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts from the rear side (hold the guide pin with a wrench if it turns). Lift the caliper off the rotor.
  6. Hang the caliper with wire from the strut spring or the body. Do not let it hang by the brake hose.
  7. Remove the old pads and note the position of the anti-squeal shims and springs. Inspect them and replace any that are worn or deformed.
  8. Remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle (usually a 17-19 mm socket; the bolts are tight, so use a long breaker bar). Remove the bracket.
  9. If the rotor is held by a retaining screw, remove it. Remove the rotor. If it is stuck, tap the hub area carefully through a wooden block or with a rubber mallet, after soaking it with penetrating oil.
  10. Clean the hub mounting surface with a wire brush down to bare metal. Rust or dirt causes rotor runout and steering wheel vibration when braking.
  11. Wipe the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove the protective coating. Install it on the hub, then fit the retaining screw if there was one.
  12. Install the bracket and tighten the mounting bolts. The torque is not confirmed; a guideline is 80-110 N·m (59-81 lb-ft), so check the manufacturer's specification. Use a torque wrench.
  13. Clean the caliper guide pins, apply fresh grease, and check that they slide freely and that the boots are intact. Replace any deformed or seized guide pins.
  14. Push the caliper piston all the way back with a C-clamp or a dedicated piston tool. Do this slowly and watch the fluid level in the reservoir.
  15. Apply a thin layer of grease to the pad backing plates and the bracket contact areas, keeping it off the friction surfaces. Install the new pads, then the caliper, and tighten the guide pin bolts. A guideline is 25-40 N·m (18-30 lb-ft); check the manufacturer's specification.
  16. Install the wheel, lower the car, and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. A guideline is 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft); check the manufacturer's specification.
  17. Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm so the pads seat against the rotors. Check the fluid level and top up to the MAX mark if needed.
  18. Bed in the pads over the first 200-300 km: avoid hard braking and avoid holding the pedal down on hot brakes. Recheck the lug nut torque after 50-100 km.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The brake system is safety-critical. If you lack experience or have doubts about the quality of the work (soft pedal, uneven braking, sticking caliper), take the car to a repair shop. Never leave the caliper hanging by the hose. If the pedal sinks to the floor after the job or brake fluid has leaked, do not drive the car. Replace rotors and pads in pairs on both sides of the axle, and do not mix different brands or levels of wear.
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