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Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo/parking-brake-adjustment/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11): Parking Brake Adjustment

On the Tiggo T11 the rear brakes are discs, and the parking brake uses separate shoes inside the "hat" of the rear rotor, operated by two cables from the lever in the cabin. The adjustment is done in two stages: first the shoes are adjusted at the wheels, then the cables are tightened at the lever. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general principle for this type of design. Verify specific torque values and the number of clicks against the manufacturer's specifications.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 40-90 minutes Steps: 12 Tools: jack and jack stands (or a lift), wheel chocks, 10/12/14 mm wrenches, thin flat-blade screwdriver or pry bar for the adjuster wheel, lug wrench, copper grease, wire brush

Part

  • 🔩 None required for the adjustment. If the cable or shoes will not hold after adjustment, you will need parking brake cables (left and right) and a parking brake shoe set for the rear brake (drum-in-disc type)

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Check the initial condition: the lever should normally engage in about 4-7 clicks and hold the vehicle securely on a slope. If the travel is more than 8-9 clicks or the vehicle does not hold, an adjustment is needed. If the lever travel is short and the wheels drag, the cable is overtightened.
  2. Park the vehicle on level ground, chock the front wheels, put the transmission in first gear, and release the parking brake lever completely.
  3. Raise the rear axle on jack stands and remove both rear wheels. Turn the rotor by hand to make sure it spins freely and does not rub on the caliper or pads.
  4. Find the access hole for the adjuster wheel (star wheel) of the shoe expanding mechanism, either in the rotor hat or on the backing plate. If there is no hole or it is plugged, you will have to remove the caliper with its bracket and the rotor without disconnecting the brake hose: hang the caliper from a wire and do not let it hang from the hose.
  5. Through the hole, turn the wheel with a screwdriver in the direction that expands the shoes until the rotor starts to drag when turned by hand. Determine the direction by trial: first turn it a few teeth and check that the rotor gets harder to turn rather than freer.
  6. Then back the wheel off by 3-5 teeth so the rotor spins freely without rubbing. A faint, even scraping sound is acceptable; hard dragging is not. Repeat on the other wheel in the same way so the adjustment is equal on both sides.
  7. If the shoes are dirty or worn (friction material less than 1-1.5 mm remaining), clean dust and rust from the mechanism, apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease to the sliding points only, and replace the shoes. Do not let grease get on the friction surfaces.
  8. Install the wheels and tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern. The lug bolt torque on the T11 is typically around 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft); confirm the exact value in the manufacturer's specifications. Lower the vehicle.
  9. Tighten the cables: in the cabin, remove the lever cover (boot), or look under the vehicle at the cable equalizer (the point where the two rear cables join the main cable). There you will find the adjusting nut with a locknut.
  10. Release the parking brake lever completely. Turn the adjusting nut to take up the cable slack until the lever engages in about 4-6 clicks at full rear brake application. Lock it with the locknut.
  11. Check: with the lever released, the wheels should spin freely (raise the axle and check by hand). If you hear or feel any dragging, loosen the nut by half a turn.
  12. Road test: on level ground at low speed, pull the lever. The vehicle should slow evenly without pulling to one side. On a slight slope, confirm that the lever at 4-6 clicks holds the vehicle securely. After 100-200 km (60-125 miles), check the rear rotors for heat: strong heat at one wheel indicates overtightening or a seized cable.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The parking brake is a safety system. If you have no experience working on brakes, have a repair shop do the adjustment. Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands. Do not overtighten the cables: constant drag causes overheating and shoe wear. If the lever travel quickly increases again after adjustment, the likely causes are a stretched or corroded cable, worn shoes, or a faulty adjusting mechanism, in which case the affected parts need to be replaced.
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