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Chery Tiggo 1.8 (SQR481F, 2014): Coolant Replacement

On the Chery Tiggo T11 with the 1.8 engine, coolant is changed about every 2-4 years or every 40,000 km, whichever comes first. The job is simple, but it is important to bleed the air out of the system thoroughly, or the engine will overheat. Drain the coolant only when the engine is cold.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 12 Tools: Wrench or socket for the radiator drain plug (as needed), flat-head screwdriver or pliers for hose clamps, 8-10 L (8.5-10.6 qt) drain pan, funnel, gloves, rags, jack or inspection pit (if you can't reach the plug from below)

Part

  • 🔩 Coolant (antifreeze) type G11/G12 per the manufacturer's specification, either premixed or concentrate with distilled water. The system holds about 7-8 L (7.4-8.5 qt), so buy 8-10 L (8.5-10.6 qt) to have extra. Do not mix different types or colors of coolant. Check the exact capacity and type against the manufacturer's maintenance schedule

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and wait until the engine has cooled completely. Never open the cap on a hot system: hot coolant will spray out under pressure.
  2. Open the hood and carefully remove the expansion tank cap. If there is an engine undercover or splash shield, remove it to get access to the radiator.
  3. Turn the ignition on without starting the engine, and set the heater control to maximum heat. This opens the heater valve so the coolant drains from the heater core too.
  4. Place the drain pan under the radiator and open the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. If the plug is seized or unreachable, loosen the clamp and pull off the lower radiator hose. Let the coolant drain completely.
  5. If the cylinder block has a drain plug, drain the coolant from there too. Check the plug location on the SQR481F on the vehicle itself, and do not unscrew anything you are not sure about.
  6. Close the drain opening, or reinstall the hose and tighten the clamp. Inspect the hoses and clamps: cracks, bulges and signs of leaks mean they should be replaced.
  7. If the old coolant was dirty, rusty or had sediment, flush the system with distilled water. Fill with water, warm up the engine with the heater on, shut it off, let it cool and drain it. Repeat until clean water comes out of the system. Do not use harsh flushing chemicals unless necessary.
  8. Pour in the new coolant slowly through the expansion tank neck to a level between the MIN and MAX marks. If you are using concentrate, dilute it beforehand with distilled water according to the instructions on the container.
  9. Leave the tank cap off. Start the engine, set the heater to maximum, and hold the engine at 1500-2000 rpm until the thermostat opens. The upper radiator hose will become hot and the fan will turn on. The level in the tank will drop, so top it up to the proper level.
  10. Periodically squeeze the upper and lower hoses by hand to push out air pockets. When the heater blows steadily hot air and the level stops dropping, close the tank cap.
  11. Shut off the engine, let it cool and check the level with the engine cold. Top up to the mark if needed. Check the plug and hoses for leaks.
  12. Over the next few days, check the level on a cold engine and watch the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster. Air may have stayed in the system and work its way out later.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Coolant is toxic and tastes sweet, so do not leave drained coolant in an open container, especially around children and pets, and take it to a recycling facility instead of pouring it on the ground. If the temperature needle goes into the red zone after the change, or the heater stays cold, stop the engine immediately: an air pocket in the system can quickly lead to overheating and damage to the cylinder head. The exact tightening torques for the plugs and clamps on this model are not confirmed in publicly available data, so tighten them moderately without stripping the threads, and check the manufacturer's service manual.
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