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Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo/rear-brake-disc-and-pad-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11): Rear Brake Disc and Pad Replacement

The Tiggo T11 has rear disc brakes with a floating caliper. Pads are usually replaced every 40-60 thousand km (25,000-37,000 miles). Discs are replaced based on wear or runout, when the thickness drops below the minimum stamped on the disc rim. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so what follows is the general principle for a floating caliper. Torque values are given as ranges.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-3 hours (both sides) Steps: 19 Tools: Jack and jack stands, lug wrench, sockets and wrenches (typically 12-17 mm for the caliper and bracket bolts), torque wrench, C-clamp or brake piston tool, wire brush, brake cleaner, copper grease for the guide pins, syringe or turkey baster for brake fluid reservoir

Part

  • 🔩 Rear brake discs (2 pcs) and a rear disc brake pad set for one axle. Replace both discs and all pads on the axle at the same time. The exact OE number for your trim level has not been confirmed, so choose parts by part name and disc diameter. Measure the diameter and thickness of the original disc before buying

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, put it in first gear, and chock the front wheels. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts half a turn.
  2. Lift the rear of the car, set it on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Work on one side at a time. The other side stays intact as a reference for reassembly.
  3. If the brake fluid level in the reservoir is close to MAX, draw a little out with a syringe. Otherwise the fluid may overflow when you push the pistons back.
  4. Inspect the caliper and the hose. Release the parking brake (lever down). Otherwise the pads will not retract and the disc will not come off.
  5. Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts (or the bracket mounting bolts, depending on the design). Take off the caliper and hang it from a wire or a zip tie. The brake hose must not carry the caliper's weight.
  6. Remove the old pads. Note their positions and the arrangement of the spring clips and anti-squeal shims.
  7. If you are replacing the disc, remove the caliper bracket bolts and take the bracket off. Remove the disc. If it is stuck, tap the hub section with a rubber mallet. If there is a disc retaining screw, remove it first.
  8. Clean the hub mounting surface of rust with a wire brush. This is important: rust causes runout of the new disc and pedal vibration.
  9. Degrease the new disc with brake cleaner, since it is coated with preservative oil. Fit it onto the hub.
  10. Install the caliper bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts with a torque wrench to the manufacturer's specification (typically 50-90 N·m (37-66 lb-ft) for bolts like these).
  11. Clean the caliper guide pins and lubricate them with a thin layer of high-temperature grease. Check the dust boots and replace any that are torn.
  12. Push the caliper piston back. If it is stiff or will not go in with an ordinary C-clamp, the piston probably has a threaded mechanism tied to the parking brake. It must be wound in by rotating it with a special tool. Do not force it, or you will break the mechanism.
  13. Install the new pads with anti-squeal shims. Apply grease only to the ends of the metal guides and the backs of the shims. No grease should get on the friction surface.
  14. Reinstall the caliper and tighten the guide pin bolts to the specification (usually 25-40 N·m (18-30 lb-ft)). Make sure the pins slide freely.
  15. Repeat everything for the other wheel.
  16. Mount the wheels, thread the lug nuts on by hand, lower the car, and tighten the nuts in a crisscross pattern. The target is around 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft), but follow the exact specification.
  17. Pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm. Check the brake fluid and top it up to MAX if needed.
  18. Adjust the parking brake: after replacement, the lever should engage at roughly 4-7 clicks. Tighten the cable if necessary.
  19. Bedding in: for the first 200-300 km (125-185 miles), avoid hard braking from high speed. Make 5-6 moderate stops from 60 to 20 km/h (37 to 12 mph) to bed the pads in.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Brakes are a safety system. If you lack experience, leave the job to a repair shop. Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed, or the piston will pop out. Do not let the caliper hang or drop on the hose. After reassembly, always test the brakes at low speed in a safe area. Brake fluid damages paint and skin, and you should not breathe brake dust.
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