Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo 1.8 (SQR481F, 2014)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo/oil-pressure-sensor-replacement/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo 1.8 (SQR481F, 2014): Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement

The oil pressure sensor on this engine works as a warning switch: it closes the circuit to ground and turns off the warning light when pressure is normal. It is threaded into the engine block near the oil filter and has one wire with a connector. Before replacing it, make sure the actual oil pressure is normal, otherwise a new sensor will not help.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-60 minutes Steps: 14 Tools: Socket for the sensor (usually 21-24 mm, choose to match the hex size), ratchet with extension, deep socket if space is tight, oil drain pan, rags, brake cleaner or degreaser, clean rags, flashlight, service pit or jack with jack stands for access from below

Part

🔩 Engine oil pressure sensor (switch) for the 1.8 (SQR481F), complete with sealing washer or O-ring, single-pin type (signals the oil pressure warning light on the instrument cluster). I am not listing a part number to avoid giving a wrong one. Choose the part by name and match it to your old sensor

Step by step

14 steps

Check the oil level with the dipstick. If the light is on because of low oil or badly thinned oil, fix that first.
Shut off the engine and let it cool to warm (the oil and block should not burn you). Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Locate the sensor on the engine block on the oil filter side. The easiest way is to look for a single wire running to a cylindrical body. If access is blocked, reach in from below or remove any plastic cover in the way. Verify the exact location on the engine itself.
Clean the area around the sensor of dirt and oil residue so dirt does not get into the port.
Position the drain pan and rags. A small amount of oil will spill when the sensor is removed.
Disconnect the connector. Press the lock tab and pull the connector body, not the wire. If the terminal has a rubber boot, slide it back.
Unscrew the sensor counterclockwise with the correct socket. If it is stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait a few minutes. Do not use an adjustable wrench or pliers.
Immediately plug the hole with a clean rag or a gloved finger to stop oil from flowing out, and compare the new sensor with the old one: thread, length and contact type must match.
Install a new sealing washer or O-ring if one is not already fitted to the sensor. If the threads have no sealant, apply a thin layer of thread sealant, keeping it off the contact. Do not use PTFE tape.
Thread the sensor in by hand until it stops, then tighten with a wrench using moderate force. The exact torque for this sensor is not confirmed in public sources. It is usually in the range of 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft). Do not overtighten: the sensor body and the threads in the block are easily damaged.
Connect the connector until it clicks, fit the boot, reconnect the battery terminal and refit the cover if you removed it.
Wipe the area clean of oil and start the engine. The light should go out within 1-2 seconds. Let the engine run for 2-3 minutes and inspect the sensor for leaks.
Shut off the engine, wait a couple of minutes and check the oil level with the dipstick, topping up to the mark if necessary.
If the light stays on or flashes on a hot engine, do not drive further: check the actual oil pressure with a gauge, and also check the oil pump, filter and oil viscosity.

Common mistakes and warnings

Do not ignore a lit oil pressure warning light: if the pressure has really dropped, driving even a few minutes can destroy the bearings. Replacing the sensor is appropriate only when the pressure has been confirmed as normal. If the light comes on only at hot idle, it is more often a sign of engine wear or oil that is too thin, not a faulty sensor. If you lack experience, go to a repair shop.