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Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo 1.8 (SQR481F) (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo/ignition-coil-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo 1.8 (SQR481F) (2007): Ignition Coil Replacement

On the SQR481F, the ignition coil sits above the spark plug in the cylinder head well. Symptoms of a failing coil include a rough, shaky idle, fluctuating RPM, hesitation under acceleration, and a Check Engine light with misfire codes (P0300-P0304). The replacement is simple, but you first need to find which coil is actually faulty.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 20-40 minutes Steps: 12 Tools: 8 mm or 10 mm socket (to fit the mounting bolt head) with a ratchet or breaker bar, 16 mm spark plug socket with an extension, flat-blade screwdriver, clean rag, compressed air or a brush, dielectric grease for the boot.

Part

  • 🔩 Ignition coil (ignition module) for the 1.8 SQR481F engine. Buy the complete coil assembly, not just the boot or the spark plug well seal. The exact OE part number for this engine has not been reliably confirmed, so the part is listed without a code. If the engine uses one coil per cylinder, it is a good idea to check the spark plugs at the same time and replace them if they are worn

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Shut off the engine, let it cool down, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Working on a hot engine makes it easy to burn yourself on the manifold and cylinder head.
  2. Remove the plastic engine cover if one is fitted. It is usually held on by clips or nuts.
  3. Identify the faulty coil. The easiest way is to swap two neighboring coils. If the misfire and the code move to the other cylinder, the coil is at fault. If they stay on the original cylinder, check the spark plug, wiring, and fuel injector.
  4. Press the locking tab on the coil's electrical connector and carefully unplug it. Do not pull on the wires. If the tab is stuck, you can pry it up with a thin screwdriver.
  5. Before removing the coil, blow out or wipe the area around it. Dirt must not get into the spark plug well.
  6. Remove the coil mounting bolt (8-10 mm socket; with this type of mounting there is a single bolt on the coil body). When installing, tighten it only moderately, about 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft). This is a rough guideline, so check the manufacturer's specification for the exact value.
  7. Pull the coil straight up, rocking it slightly. The rubber boot can stick to the spark plug, so pull evenly without tilting to avoid damaging the plug's ceramic insulator.
  8. Inspect the boot and the spark plug well. Cracks, signs of arcing, or oil or moisture in the well mean you need to replace the valve cover gasket or seal, or the coil itself.
  9. If possible, remove the spark plug with a 16 mm spark plug socket and inspect it. Carbon buildup, melted electrodes, or an overly large gap will shorten the life of the new coil. In that case, install new spark plugs as well.
  10. Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the new coil's rubber boot.
  11. Press the coil onto the spark plug until it clicks or seats fully, tighten the mounting bolt, and plug in the connector until it locks.
  12. Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect the battery. Start the engine and make sure it idles smoothly with no rough running. If necessary, clear the fault codes with a diagnostic scan tool or by disconnecting the battery terminal for a few minutes.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not remove coils or unplug connectors while the engine is running or the ignition is on. The secondary winding carries high voltage, and voltage spikes can damage the engine control unit. If misfires continue after the replacement, the cause is most likely the spark plugs, injectors, compression, or wiring. In that case, it is best to have the engine diagnosed at a repair shop.