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Autopapyrus · Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/chery/tiggo/transmission-diagnosis-and-repair/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Chery Tiggo (I generation, T11): Transmission Diagnosis and Repair

The Tiggo T11 with the 1.8 engine most often has a 5-speed manual transmission, and an automated manual transmission is less common. Typical manual transmission problems are grinding and hard shifting caused by worn synchronizers, and a clutch life of about 100,000 km. Repair starts with diagnosis: you need to separate clutch and clutch-control faults from faults in the transmission itself. Do not try to repair the automated manual transmission without diagnostic equipment.

Difficulty: Hard Time: diagnosis 1-2 hours; transmission removal and disassembly 1-2 days (with disassembly at a shop) Steps: 13 Tools: lift or pit, transmission jack, socket and wrench set, clutch alignment tool (splined arbor), pullers and press (for disassembly), drain pan, new seals and gaskets

Part

  • 🔩 clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing), axle shaft seals and input shaft seal, transmission fluid per the manufacturer's specification, synchronizer rebuild kit if the synchronizers are worn

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Identify the transmission type: a manual has a shift lever with a shift linkage and a clutch pedal, while an automated manual has a selector and no pedal. The steps below cover the manual transmission.
  2. Road diagnosis. If the gears grind in all conditions and the pedal feels normal, the cause is usually the synchronizers. If the grinding happens only when engaging from a stop, or the gears will not engage with the pedal pressed, check the clutch controls and the clutch. If the lever engages with the pedal pressed but you hear a whine after releasing it, look at the release bearing and the input shaft bearing.
  3. Clutch control check. Check the level and condition of the fluid in the reservoir, bleed the hydraulic system, and inspect the master and slave cylinders for leaks. Many "transmission faults" are fixed by bleeding the system or replacing a cylinder.
  4. Oil check. Drain the oil into a clean container and inspect it. Metal chips and fine silvery "dust" point to wear of the gears and synchronizers. Fill with fresh oil of the correct viscosity and check whether shifting has changed: sometimes that is enough. Take the oil capacity and grade from the manufacturer's specification.
  5. Preparing for removal. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, raise the car on a lift, and remove the engine undercover (skid plate). Drain the oil from the transmission.
  6. Disconnect the shift cables or rods, the sensors (reverse light switch, speed sensor), the electrical connectors, and the clutch hydraulic line. Mark the position of parts before disassembly.
  7. Remove the axle shafts (driveshafts), pulling them out of the transmission. On a 4WD version, disconnect the propeller shaft and the transfer case. Remove the starter and the exhaust system if it is in the way.
  8. Support the engine from below and hold the transmission with a transmission jack. Remove the bolts securing the transmission to the engine and the transmission mount, then carefully move the transmission back, strictly in line with the shaft axis. Do not let it hang on the input shaft.
  9. Inspect the clutch: the flywheel (cracks, heat discoloration, wear), the pressure plate, and the disc. Replacing the clutch while access is open is a must if mileage exceeds 80,000-100,000 km. Replace the whole kit, and resurface or replace the flywheel if necessary.
  10. Disassembling the transmission at a shop. Inspection includes checking the shaft bearings, the gear teeth and synchronizer cones, the shift forks, and the sleeves. Replace worn synchronizers, bearings, and all seals. Take dimensions and tolerances (axial clearances, shims) from the manufacturer's specification; exact figures for this transmission are not confirmed in public sources.
  11. Assembly and installation. Apply a thin layer of grease to the input shaft splines, center the disc with the alignment tool, then fit the transmission without tilting it so the splines are not damaged. Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque, approximately in the range of 40-80 N·m (30-59 lb-ft) for the bell housing bolts; confirm the exact value in the manual.
  12. Fill with new oil up to the level of the fill-plug hole, bleed the clutch hydraulic system, and check pedal operation and engagement of all gears with the car stationary.
  13. Test drive: check gear engagement and look for vibration, noise, and leaks. After a few hundred kilometers, inspect the transmission for leaks again.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Work under a raised vehicle only on a lift or jack stands, never on a jack alone. The transmission weighs several tens of kilograms, so removing it without a transmission jack and a helper is dangerous. If you have no experience disassembling transmissions, leave the inspection and repair to a specialized shop. The automated manual transmission on this model is considered unreliable and needs diagnostics on proper equipment; repairing it yourself without that equipment is often not worthwhile.