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Autopapyrus · Changan CS75 Plus (1st Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/changan/cs75-plus/front-brake-disc-and-pad-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Changan CS75 Plus (1st Generation): Front Brake Disc and Pad Replacement

The front brake assembly on the CS75 Plus (disc, floating caliper, two guide pins) is conventional, so the job is typical. Replace the discs together with the pads if wear is beyond the limit, or if there is scoring, deep grooves or runout. A confirmed list of torque specifications for this model is not available in public sources, so ranges are given below. Verify the final values against the manufacturer's service manual.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1.5-2.5 hours Steps: 13 Tools: jack and jack stands, lug wrench, sockets and wrenches (usually 14-21 mm, confirm exact sizes on the vehicle), torque wrench, pry bar, wire brush, brake cleaner, high-temperature copper grease, C-clamp or piston spreader, wire or hook to support the caliper, thread locker (if the caliper bracket bolts require it)

Part

  • 🔩 front brake discs (vented, set for both sides) and a front brake pad set with a wear sensor, if your trim level has one. I am not listing part numbers to avoid mistakes. Choose parts by the size of the disc on your vehicle: the diameter and thickness are marked on the disc itself or on its edge. Replace discs and pads only in axle sets, meaning both sides at once

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the parking brake (chock the rear wheels), and loosen the front lug nuts half a turn. Then raise the front end, set the jack stands, and remove the wheels. Do not leave one side disassembled if you are unsure of the assembly order. Finish one side, then do the other.
  2. Inspect the assembly. Check the guide pin boots, the hose and lines, and look for leaks at the caliper piston. If a boot is torn or the hose is cracking, buy a repair kit or replace the part before reassembly.
  3. If it gets in the way, turn the steering wheel slightly to gain access to the back of the caliper. Remove the two guide pin bolts (on the back side of the caliper) and take off the caliper together with the pads. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose. Hang it on wire or rest it on a stand.
  4. Remove the pads from the bracket and note the position of the spring clips and anti-squeal shims. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle, then take off the bracket. These bolts are tight, so you will need a long breaker bar. If the bracket does not block removal of the disc, you can leave it on, but it is better to remove it so you can clean the mounting surfaces.
  5. Remove the old disc. If there is a retaining screw or pin holding the disc, remove it. If the disc is stuck, strike it from behind with a hammer through a spacer, or apply penetrating oil. Do not hit the friction surface of the disc.
  6. Clean the hub where the disc seats with a wire brush down to bare metal, then wipe it clean. Rust and dirt under the disc cause runout and steering wheel vibration when braking. Degrease the new discs with brake cleaner to remove the protective coating.
  7. Install the new disc on the hub. If you removed the caliper bracket, reinstall it and tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to specification. For this class of vehicle, the torque is usually about 90-130 N·m (66-96 lb-ft), but verify the exact value. Use thread locker only if the manufacturer requires it.
  8. Clean the bracket slides and apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease to the pad contact points on the bracket and to the guide pins. Do not get grease on the friction surface of the pad or disc.
  9. Push back the caliper piston: open the brake fluid reservoir cap (watch the level and remove excess fluid if necessary), place an old pad against the piston, and press it in smoothly with a clamp or spreader. If the piston moves stiffly, check the boot and the guide pins.
  10. Insert the new pads into the bracket. Connect the wear sensor, if equipped, on the correct side. Fit the caliper over the pads, lubricate the guide pins, and tighten their bolts with a torque wrench. The torque is usually about 25-40 N·m (18-30 lb-ft), but verify the exact value against the service manual. Check that the caliper slides freely on the guide pins.
  11. Install the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern. Lower the vehicle and perform the final tightening of the lug nuts with a torque wrench, usually about 110-130 N·m (81-96 lb-ft), with the exact value per the service manual. Repeat all the steps on the other side.
  12. Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm, and check the fluid level in the reservoir, topping up to the proper level if needed. Do not drive if the pedal sinks to the floor.
  13. Bedding-in: for the first 200-300 km, avoid hard braking. Perform several moderate stops from 50-80 km/h down to 20-30 km/h without coming to a complete stop, so the pads bed in to the discs. After 100-200 km, recheck the lug nut torque.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Brakes affect safety. If you have no experience with brake systems, no torque wrench, or are unsure about the assembly, have the work done at a repair shop. Do not leave the caliper hanging from the hose. Do not touch brake fluid with bare hands and do not let it get on paint (it is aggressive). After assembly, be sure to check the pedal and make a test drive at low speed. Replacing only one side of an axle will cause uneven braking and the vehicle will pull to one side.
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