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Autopapyrus · Peugeot 3008 1.6 THP EP6DT (2009)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/peugeot/3008/turbocharger-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Peugeot 3008 1.6 THP EP6DT (2009): Turbocharger Replacement

On the EP6DT, the turbo is removed together with the exhaust manifold, from below and from above after taking apart the intake. The most important part of the job is finding out why the old turbo failed (clogged oil feed, a broken-up catalytic converter, a worn wastegate valve) and replacing the oil feed and drain lines. Otherwise the new turbo will fail just as quickly.

DifficultyHard Time3-6 hours in a home garage (an experienced mechanic in a shop does it in about 1.5-2 hours) Steps16

Key figures

  • Shop labor time
    about 1.5 hours, which is how long an experienced mechanic needs to replace the turbo on this model; in a garage without a lift, allow more (see "Time")

Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.

Parts

9
№Part
01 Complete turbocharger assembly for 1.6 THP EP6DT (KKK K03 type)new or remanufactured
02 Turbo oil feed line
03 Oil drain (return) line with seals
04 Exhaust manifold gasket
05 Turbo gasket
06 O-rings and washers for disassembled connectionsnew, for all disassembled connections
07 Engine oil
08 Oil filter
09 Coolantif needed

Tools

9
  • Socket set and ratchet
  • extensions
  • torque wrench
  • Torx and hex key sets
  • hose clamp pliers
  • plugs or clean plastic film to cover open pipes and ports
  • lift or inspection pit
  • drain pan for coolant
  • new consumables
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Let the engine cool down completely. Put the car on a lift or over a pit and disconnect the battery.
  2. Remove the battery cover, the battery itself, its tray, and the engine undertray.
  3. Drain some of the coolant: coolant hoses run to the turbo. The level must be below their connections.
  4. Remove the intake: the air intake base plate cover, the air deflector, the air pipe to the turbo, the air filter cover, the filter element, and the air filter housing together with the intake ducts.
  5. Immediately plug all open air ports of the turbo, intercooler and intake manifold with plugs or clean plastic film. Any debris that gets inside will kill the new turbo.
  6. Disconnect the sensor connector, remove the mounts and clamps of the turbo outlet (charge) pipe and the intermediate air duct of the throttle body. Loosen the clamps and remove the intermediate pipe, then disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose and the throttle body inlet duct.
  7. Disconnect the air pressure sensor, loosen the intake manifold bolts, and disconnect the evaporative canister purge line. Remove the rear brackets of the throttle body and intake manifold, then remove the intake manifold. Check the manifold's rubber seals.
  8. Disconnect the line of the boost pressure control valve (wastegate). Move the coolant feed line to the turbo out of the way.
  9. Remove the bolts and take off the turbo bracket. Remove the bolt holding the oil drain line and disconnect it from the turbo. Disconnect the oil feed line from the turbo and from the engine block.
  10. Undo the mounting bolts and remove the turbo together with the exhaust manifold. Then remove the lower heat shield and the gasket, undo the exhaust manifold nuts, and separate the manifold, the turbo and the sealing gasket. Replace all removed gaskets and seals with new ones.
  11. Before installing the new unit, inspect the catalytic converter and the exhaust path: a disintegrating catalytic converter will partly destroy the new turbo as well. Check the oil feed line: if its passage is clogged with carbon deposits, replace the line rather than cleaning it. Replacing the oil feed and drain lines together with the turbo is mandatory.
  12. Before installation, pour clean engine oil into the oil inlet of the new turbo and turn the rotor by hand several times so the shaft does not run dry at startup.
  13. Install the manifold with a new gasket, the turbo, the oil feed and drain lines with new seals, the bracket and the heat shield in reverse order. The torque values are approximate, so check the exact figures against the manufacturer's specifications: tighten with a torque wrench, spread the load on the manifold nuts and turbo studs evenly in a crisscross pattern, and do not overtighten the oil line fittings.
  14. Reassemble the intake, reconnect all connectors and clamps, and make sure the plugs have been removed from the pipes. Top up the coolant, check the oil level, and change the oil and filter if necessary.
  15. Disable the fuel supply or crank the engine with the starter for a few seconds (without starting it) to build oil pressure. Then start the engine, let it idle for about a minute, and check for oil and coolant leaks and air leaks. Do not rev the engine until it has warmed up.
  16. Take a test drive, read the fault codes with a diagnostic scanner, and reset the adaptations. Compare requested and actual boost pressure.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This is a difficult job: there are many hoses, connectors and plastic parts that break during removal
  • If you have no experience, leave it to a repair shop
  • The exhaust manifold and turbo are hot, so remove them only on a cold engine
  • If a new turbo fails quickly, the cause is usually not the turbo itself but the oil, the catalytic converter, or a clogged line