Autopapyrus · Ravon R3 1.5 B15D2 (2021)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ravon/r3/oil-pan-removal/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ravon/r3/oil-pan-removal/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Ravon R3 1.5 B15D2 (2021): Oil Pan Removal
The oil pan is removed to fix a leak at the mating surface, replace a punctured pan, or clean the oil pickup screen. Drain the oil completely. Usually removing the skid plate is enough for access, and if space is tight, you can move accessories such as the A/C compressor aside. The main challenge is a clean mating surface and a leak-free reassembly.
Parts
5| № | Part |
|---|---|
| 01 | Oil pan assemblyonly if damaged or punctured |
| 02 | Engine oilfor refilling after reassembly |
| 03 | Oil filterfor replacement after reassembly |
| 04 | Oil pan gasket or oil-resistant automotive sealant |
| 05 | Oil pan drain plug with new sealing washerif needed |
Tools
7- lift or inspection pit
- socket set and ratchet
- torque wrench
- putty knife or plastic scraper
- surface cleaner and degreaser
- oil drain pan of 5 L (5.3 qt) or larger
- jack stands
Step by step
16 steps- Park the vehicle on level ground and raise it on a lift or set it on jack stands. Shut off the engine and let it cool to warm so you don't get burned. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Remove the engine skid plate, if equipped.
- Place the drain pan, remove the drain plug and drain the oil completely. Remove the old sealing washer and wipe the plug clean.
- Inspect the area around the oil pan. If lines, brackets or the A/C compressor are in the way, move them aside without disconnecting the A/C circuit or opening the refrigerant lines. Moving the compressor aside is enough for access.
- If the pan joins the transmission, note which bolts go into the engine and which go into the transmission, and don't remove any extra bolts.
- Remove the oil pan bolts around the perimeter, working in a circular pattern and loosening them in a crisscross sequence. Leave one or two bolts in place until the end so the pan doesn't fall.
- If the pan is stuck, carefully work around the joint with a plastic wedge or thin putty knife. Don't use a screwdriver and don't hammer on the aluminum flange, because it will deform and then leak.
- Lower and remove the pan. Inspect it for cracks, a deformed flange and debris clogging. Fine metal dust on the bottom is normal, but large metal chips indicate engine wear.
- Clean the mating surface on the block and on the pan, removing leftover sealant or gasket with a plastic scraper, then degrease. Make sure no debris falls into the engine.
- If the pan was sealed with sealant from the factory, apply an even, continuous bead of new oil-resistant sealant, going around all the bolt holes. If you use a gasket, install it on a dry, clean surface. Assemble right away, before the sealant begins to set, and do not exceed the time stated on the tube.
- Install the pan and thread in the bolts by hand. Tighten them in a crisscross pattern from the center outward in two to three passes. The approximate oil pan bolt torque is 8-12 N·m (6-9 lb-ft); verify the exact value against the manufacturer's specifications. Do not overtighten, or the flange will warp.
- Allow the sealant to cure for the time given in the instructions on the package, usually at least one hour, before adding oil.
- Install the drain plug with a new washer. The approximate drain plug torque is 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft); verify the exact value against the manufacturer's specifications.
- Reinstall the parts you moved earlier, the compressor and the skid plate. Tighten the skid plate fasteners to the manufacturer's specifications.
- Replace the oil filter and add fresh oil. See the owner's manual for the oil specification, viscosity and fill capacity. Check the level with the dipstick.
- Start the engine, make sure the oil pressure light goes out, and check the pan and plug for leaks. After a few minutes, shut off the engine, check the level and inspect the joint again. Check again after a day of driving.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Perform all work under the vehicle only on a lift or on sturdy jack stands, never on a jack alone
- Hot oil causes burns, so drain it with the engine warm but not hot
- The torque values in the steps are approximate, so verify the exact values against the manufacturer's specifications
- If the leak persists after reassembly, also check the rear crankshaft seal: it is often mistaken for an oil pan leak