Autopapyrus · SsangYong Actyon 2.0 D20DTF (2011)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/actyon/replacing-the-low-pressure-fuel-hoses/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/actyon/replacing-the-low-pressure-fuel-hoses/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
SsangYong Actyon 2.0 D20DTF (2011): Replacing the Low-Pressure Fuel Hoses
On the D20DTF, the low-pressure side is the supply from the tank through the heated fuel filter to the high-pressure pump, plus the return of excess fuel to the tank. Old hoses crack and soften, which causes air leaks, unstable idle, hard starting and fuel seepage. The exact routing and fitting type depend on the trim and market, so follow your own vehicle and photograph the position of each hose before removal.
Parts
5| № | Part | Genuine part no. | Alternatives |
|---|---|---|---|
| 01 | Diesel low-pressure fuel hose (supply, tank to fuel filter and high-pressure pump)diesel-resistant | 2277309401 | |
| 2277208400 | |||
| 2277208480 | |||
| 02 | Diesel low-pressure fuel hose (return line)diesel-resistant | ||
| 03 | Screw-type or spring clamps for fuel hoses | ||
| 04 | Fuel system quick-connect fitting O-ringsif needed | ||
| 05 | Fuel filter | 6650921201 | Mann, Bosch, Filtron |
| 6650921301 |
Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.
Tools
8- Socket and wrench set 8-14 mm
- flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
- hose clamp pliers
- fuel line quick-disconnect tool
- container for draining fuel
- shop rags
- gloves and safety glasses
- clean plugs or caps for open ports
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online).
See manuals →
Step by step
12 steps- Park the vehicle on a level surface or a lift, shut off the engine and let it cool down. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Clean the hose connections and the filter area with a brush and compressed air. Dirt of any kind getting into a diesel fuel system is unacceptable.
- Relieve the residual pressure: wait 10-15 minutes after the engine is shut off. Place a container under the filter and the joints, and lay rags around them.
- Inspect the whole circuit: from the fuel tank along the underbody to the engine bay, including the connections at the filter, at the high-pressure pump and on the return line. Find the damaged sections and decide which hoses need replacing.
- Photograph and label the hoses (supply, return) so you don't mix them up during installation. Mark the position of the clamps.
- Disconnect the joints: loosen the clamps or squeeze them with pliers, and release quick-disconnect fittings by pressing the locking tab or using a disconnect tool. Do not pull with force or break the plastic retainers. Immediately cover the open fittings with clean plugs.
- Remove the hose by pulling it off with a slight twisting motion. Plug any openings that are leaking fuel. If the hose runs along the underbody, first remove the underbody shield and release the plastic clips and brackets.
- Compare the new hose with the old one for length, diameter and shape. The fuel line must be fuel-resistant and rated for diesel (a hose without internal reinforcement is suitable for the return line, but the supply line needs a strong reinforced braid). Do not substitute vacuum hoses or silicone tubing.
- Install the new hoses in the same order and position. Seat them fully onto the fittings; quick-connect fittings must click. Check the connection by pulling on the hose by hand. Tighten the clamps moderately, without overtightening, so the hose isn't pinched (roughly light screwdriver force, without stripping the screw; for the exact value, follow the manufacturer's specification).
- Route the hoses so they do not touch the exhaust manifold, sharp edges or moving parts, and secure them in the factory clips. Avoid kinks.
- Reconnect the battery. If there is a manual primer pump on the filter, pump the system until it feels firm. If there is no primer pump, switch the ignition on and off several times so the pump builds pressure, then start the engine in short cranking attempts of 10-15 seconds.
- With the engine running, check all connections for leaks and air ingress. Air in the return line or bubbles in transparent sections indicate a poorly seated hose. Take a test drive and inspect the joints again. Be sure to check the ECU for stored fault codes.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Diesel fuel is flammable, so do not work near open flames or a hot exhaust
- Do not let dirt or air into the system: after the circuit has been opened, the engine may be hard to start
- Fuel leaks at the hoses are unacceptable; if you have no experience working on fuel systems, leave the job to a repair shop
- Do not disassemble the high-pressure system (rail, lines, Common Rail injectors) yourself: pressure reaches hundreds of bar, which is dangerous