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https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/land-cruiser-prado/oil-pickup-tube-oil-strainer-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 2.7 (2TR-FE) (2019): Oil Pickup Tube (Oil Strainer) Replacement

Replacing the oil pickup tube on the 2.7 L 2TR-FE engine is needed if the oil pressure warning light stays on for a long time after a cold start (up to 1 minute), especially in cold weather below minus 15°C (5°F), or if the hydraulic lifters and timing chain rattle during the first minutes of operation. The cause is the hardening rubber O-ring on the pickup tube, which begins to draw in air. Toyota updated this part in 2022. The job is labor-intensive: you must remove the front differential and driveshafts (axle shafts) and move the steering rack aside to access the oil pans.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-10 hours Steps: 19 Tools: socket and wrench set, torque wrench, floor jack and jack stands, gasket scraper/sealant cutting tool, oil drain pan (10 L (10.6 qt)), oil pressure gauge (for diagnostics)

Part

  • 🔩 Toyota oil pickup tube 15104-75211 (updated version without slots), O-ring 15147-75041, oil pan sealant (Victor Reinz 703141410 or equivalent). Engine oil 5W-30 or 0W-20 (5.6 L (5.9 qt)), front differential oil 75W-90 GL-5 (1.3 L (1.4 qt))

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Raise the front of the vehicle on a lift or with a jack and jack stands, and secure the rear with wheel chocks. Remove the engine skid plate.
  2. Drain the engine oil through the drain plug in the lower oil pan (about 5-5.6 L (5.3-5.9 qt)). Drain the front differential oil through the differential drain plug.
  3. Remove both front drive axles (half-shafts): remove the hub nuts, remove the bolts securing the ball joints to the steering knuckles, and pull the inner CV joints out of the differential (carefully, so you do not damage the seals).
  4. Remove the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe (usually 4 bolts) and move the rack forward without disconnecting the tie rods and hydraulic hoses (if equipped with hydraulic power steering). Secure the rack with wire or a strap so it does not hang from the hoses.
  5. Remove the bolts securing the front differential to the subframe and engine block (usually 6-8 bolts). Carefully lower the differential and remove it (you may not need to disconnect the driveshaft from the transfer case if the length allows).
  6. Remove the bolts of the upper oil pan (the small aluminum one, attached to the cylinder block). Carefully cut the old sealant around the perimeter of the pan with a special tool or a thin knife. Remove the upper oil pan.
  7. Remove the bolts of the lower oil pan (the large steel one). Cut the sealant around the perimeter and remove the lower oil pan. Important: do not damage the mating surfaces; work carefully.
  8. Remove the two bolts securing the oil pickup tube to the oil pump (tightening torque during installation is 9 N·m (80 lb-in)). Remove the old pickup tube together with the O-ring.
  9. Clean the pickup tube mounting surface on the oil pump of any remains of the old O-ring and dirt. Install the new O-ring on the new pickup tube (updated 15104-75211, without slots).
  10. Install the new pickup tube on the oil pump and tighten the two mounting bolts to 9 N·m (80 lb-in).
  11. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of both oil pans and the cylinder block of any remains of old sealant (use a plastic scraper or a dedicated sealant remover, and do not scratch the metal).
  12. Apply new sealant in a thin, even bead (2-3 mm in diameter) around the mating surface of the lower oil pan. Install the lower oil pan and tighten the bolts to 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
  13. Apply sealant around the perimeter of the upper oil pan, install it on the cylinder block, and tighten the bolts to 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb-ft) from the center outward. Let the sealant cure according to the manufacturer's instructions (usually 2-4 hours before adding oil, up to 24 hours before full load).
  14. Reinstall the front differential, and tighten the bolts securing it to the subframe and engine block (check the service manual for the torque; usually 50-70 N·m (37-52 lb-ft) for the subframe mounting). Fill the differential with oil through the fill plug (1.3 L (1.4 qt), 75W-90 GL-5).
  15. Return the steering rack to its place and tighten the bolts securing it to the subframe (torque is usually 80-100 N·m (59-74 lb-ft); check the service manual). Check for power steering fluid leaks.
  16. Install both front drive axles: insert the inner CV joints into the differential until they click into place, connect the outer CV joints to the hubs, tighten the ball joint bolts, and tighten the hub nuts (hub nut torque is usually 215-250 N·m (159-184 lb-ft); be sure to check the service manual).
  17. Fill the engine with oil through the oil filler neck (5.6 L (5.9 qt) per the service manual). Reinstall the engine skid plate.
  18. Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes, checking for oil leaks from the pans. Shut it off, wait 5-10 minutes, check the oil level with the dipstick, and top up if needed.
  19. Take the vehicle for a test drive and check the operation of the front drive, the steering, and that there are no unusual noises. The next day, check the oil level again and look for leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job requires considerable skill and experience. Incorrect assembly can cause oil leaks and damage to the differential or steering. If you have no experience working on drivetrain and suspension components, take the vehicle to a professional repair shop. Do not start the engine until the pan sealant has fully cured (at least 2-4 hours). When installing the drive axles, be sure to use new retaining clips (circlips) on the inner CV joints. Hub nut torque is critical for safety, so be sure to use a torque wrench and check the manufacturer's service manual.