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Autopapyrus · Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 2.7 (163 hp) (2019)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/land-cruiser-prado/upstream-oxygen-sensor-replacement-before-the-catalytic-converter/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 2.7 (163 hp) (2019): Upstream Oxygen Sensor Replacement (Before the Catalytic Converter)

The upstream oxygen sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) is located in the exhaust manifold ahead of the catalytic converter. Replace it when the Check Engine light comes on (codes P0130-P0138), when fuel consumption increases, or when the engine runs unevenly. Sensor service life is 60,000-100,000 km.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 12 Tools: 22 mm wrench (6-point socket or a slotted oxygen sensor socket), jack, jack stands, WD-40 penetrating lubricant, copper anti-seize

Parts

2
  • 🔩 Oxygen sensor (O2 sensor), Bank 1 Sensor 1. OE numbers 89465-60380 or 89467-60010 (depending on trim level)
  • 🔩 aftermarket equivalents Denso DOX-0259, Bosch 0 258 017 025

Step by step

12 steps
  1. Warm the engine to operating temperature and shut it off. The hot manifold metal makes the sensor easier to loosen.
  2. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and set it on sturdy jack stands. Remove the front right wheel to reach the sensor connector through the wheel well.
  3. Locate the sensor. It is threaded into the exhaust manifold on the right side of the engine, and its wire runs up to the wiring harness.
  4. Disconnect the sensor's electrical connector. Press the locking tab and carefully pull the halves apart (the connector is often under a plastic cover near the fender liner).
  5. Spray the sensor's threaded joint with WD-40 penetrating lubricant and wait 10-15 minutes.
  6. Using a 22 mm wrench (preferably a slotted oxygen sensor socket that clears the wire), turn the sensor counterclockwise to loosen it. If it won't budge, warm the manifold again or use a breaker bar (a wrench extension).
  7. Unscrew the old sensor completely and inspect the threads in the manifold. They should be clean.
  8. Apply a thin layer of copper anti-seize to the threads of the new sensor (new sensors often come with anti-seize already applied to the threads).
  9. Thread the new sensor in by hand until it stops, then tighten it with a 22 mm wrench to 35-45 N·m (26-33 lb-ft), or hand-tight plus a half turn with the wrench.
  10. Reconnect the electrical connector and make sure the locking tab clicks into place.
  11. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle.
  12. Start the engine and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Connect a diagnostic scan tool and clear the trouble codes. Check for exhaust leaks at the sensor mounting point.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not use regular grease or graphite paste on the sensor threads. Use only copper anti-seize or a product made for exhaust systems. Do not use excessive force when removing the old sensor, because you can strip the threads in the manifold (an expensive repair). Handle the sensor wire carefully, as it is fragile.