Toyota RAV4 2.0 3ZR-FAE (2011): Cylinder Head Resurfacing

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

• Socket set and ratchet
• torque wrench
• angle gauge for tightening the cylinder head bolts
• timing chain holding tools/retainers
• straightedge and feeler gauge set
• gasket scraper (plastic or brass)
• bore gauge or micrometer
• dial indicator with stand
• sealant for joints as specified in the service manual
• consumable fluids

1. Make sure resurfacing is really needed. After overheating, or if you see white smoke, bubbles in the coolant reservoir, or a drop in compression, run a combustion gas leak test on the coolant and perform a compression test. If the gasket is not blown and the surface is within spec, resurfacing is not needed.
2. Let the engine cool down completely and drain the coolant and engine oil. Disconnect the battery, then remove the air intake duct, the fuel rail with injectors, the ignition coils, and any electrical connectors and hoses that get in the way of removing the head.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold together with the catalytic converter, or disconnect the downpipe, then remove the intake manifold. Soak the exhaust studs and nuts with penetrating oil in advance.
4. Remove the valve cover and set the No. 1 cylinder piston to TDC on the compression stroke using the marks. Apply extra paint marks to the chain and the camshaft sprockets. Remove the chain tensioner and the sprockets or VVT-i phasers. Secure the chain with wire so that it does not fall into the engine block.
5. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the reverse of the tightening sequence: from the edges toward the center, in 2-3 passes. Do not break them loose to full torque all at once, because the aluminum head can warp. Lift off the head without prying on the mating surface with a screwdriver.
6. Clean the block and head surfaces of gasket residue with a plastic or brass scraper. Do not scratch the aluminum. Keep debris out of the oil passages and cylinders (plug them with rags).
7. Check the head surface: lay a straightedge along its length and across the diagonals, and measure the gap with a feeler gauge. For the aluminum heads of modern Toyotas, the allowable warpage is usually around 0.05 mm, but check the exact value against the service manual. Check the block surface the same way. If the block is warped, resurfacing the head alone will not solve the problem.
8. Before taking the head to the machine shop, disassemble it: remove the camshafts, lifters or rocker arms with the Valvematic mechanism, valves, and springs. The shop needs a bare head. Keep all Valvematic mechanism parts and lifters in order, and do not mix anything up.
9. Ask the machinist to measure the head height before and after machining. Remove the minimum, usually a few tenths of a millimeter. Heavy removal changes the compression ratio and shifts the chain and cam timing geometry. Do not over-machine: never go below the minimum allowable head height, which is given in the service manual for this engine.
10. After resurfacing, check the valve seats and valves, and lap or replace them if necessary. Pressure-test the head and flush the passages. Keep in mind that after metal removal, the clearance between the valves and pistons may decrease and the chain tension may loosen, so check the condition of the chain, guides, and tensioner.
11. Reassemble the head and install a new MLS gasket (with no sealant on the mating surfaces unless the service manual requires otherwise), aligning the dowel pins. Lightly lubricate the threads and the area under the heads of the new cylinder head bolts with engine oil.
12. Cylinder head tightening: from the center outward, in several passes, with a final angle turn. Take the specific torques and angles for the 3ZR-FAE from the Toyota service manual, and do not tighten by feel. These bolts are torque-to-yield and must not be reused.
13. Install the chain according to the marks, then the tensioner and phasers, and check the timing marks after turning the crankshaft by hand through two full revolutions. If the crankshaft is hard to turn, stop and find the cause. Never force it.
14. Reassemble the manifolds, fuel rail, coils, and connectors. Take the torque values for the manifolds, spark plugs, and valve cover from the service manual. Tighten the plugs and the cover with a torque wrench, not by hand feel.
15. Fill with fresh oil and coolant, and replace the oil filter. Bleed the air from the cooling system. Start the engine, warm it up until the fan comes on, and check for leaks and fault codes. Do a re-torque per the service manual if it requires one (bolts tightened by angle usually do not need it).
16. After 500-1000 km, check the oil and coolant levels, and make sure there are no leaks at the head joint and that the engine runs smoothly.

• This job requires precision and machine shop equipment: have the head resurfaced only on a machine by an experienced machinist
• If you have no experience disassembling modern chain-driven valvetrains with VVT-i, leave the assembly to a repair shop, because an error in timing or tightening leads to pistons hitting valves and an expensive repair
• Always replace the head gasket and bolts with new ones, and after overheating, check the block for warping as well