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Autopapyrus · Volkswagen Crafter (1st Generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/volkswagen/crafter/lower-steering-shaft-u-joint-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Volkswagen Crafter (1st Generation): Lower Steering Shaft U-Joint Replacement

The lower U-joint of the intermediate steering shaft sits at the steering rack input shaft. When it wears, it causes play and a knocking noise when you turn the wheel or drive over bumps. The original joint is often not sold separately, so the usual fix is to replace the complete shaft or fit a repair joint. Detailed procedures for this model are sparse in publicly available service materials, so below is the general procedure, adapted to the Crafter's design.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-2 hours Steps: 10 Tools: Socket and wrench set (usually 13-15 mm for the clamp bolts; confirm the exact size on the vehicle), Torx/hex sockets in case of different fasteners, torque wrench, jack and jack stands, pry bar, light hammer, copper grease, thread locker, marker or paint

Parts

3
№PartGenuine part no.
01 Intermediate steering shaft with U-joints, complete 2E1419315
2E1419315C
02 Repair U-joint / crossif the shaft allows the joint to be pressed out and replaced 2E1419315
2E1419315C
03 Joint clamp boltsnew, if the originals are single-use

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

10 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface with the wheels pointing straight ahead and the steering wheel centered. Turn off the engine, remove the key, and lock the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position so it cannot turn during the work. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. To reach the bottom of the shaft, you may need to remove the engine undercover and the plastic shields under the cab.
  3. Locate the lower joint: it connects the intermediate shaft to the rack input shaft at the bulkhead. Check for play: shake the shaft by hand and check for axial play and binding.
  4. Use a marker to mark the relative position of the shaft and the splined rack input shaft, as well as the shaft and the upper joint, to preserve steering wheel alignment.
  5. Remove the clamp bolt of the lower joint on the rack input shaft. If the joint has a slot, do not hammer it apart. Spread the clamp lightly with a pry bar and gentle taps.
  6. Remove the upper mounting bolt of the shaft (at the column) and carefully compress the telescoping shaft to slide it off the rack input shaft and the column. Do not turn the steering wheel after the shaft is removed, so the rack position is not disturbed.
  7. If you are installing a complete shaft, compare it with the new one: length, number of splines, and joint orientation. If you are replacing only the joint, press the old one out with a vise or puller and press the new one in, strictly following the marks.
  8. Apply a thin layer of copper grease to the splines, keeping it off the clamping surfaces. Slide the shaft onto the rack input shaft, then onto the column, aligning the marks. The steering wheel must remain centered.
  9. Install the clamp bolts. The bolts must seat in the groove of the splined shaft. Tighten with a torque wrench: typically 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft) for clamp bolts like these, but the exact value depends on the specific bolt type (use new bolts if they are single-use).
  10. Install the undercover, lower the vehicle, and reconnect the battery. Start the engine and make sure the steering wheel sits straight when driving in a straight line, there is no knocking or play, and the power steering works without unusual noises. Take a test drive at low speed.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The steering system is safety-critical
  • A clamp bolt that is incorrectly tightened or not seated in the groove can lead to loss of steering control
  • If you lack experience, have a repair shop do the work
  • After the replacement, it is advisable to have the wheel alignment checked and to re-torque the fasteners after 50-100 km (30-60 miles)
  • Do not turn the steering wheel with the shaft removed, and do not leave the vehicle on its wheels without locking the steering position